Why Bunkers are not consistent

 Today's golfers are accustomed to such wonderful playing conditions that the most frequent complaint about course conditioning is actually involving a hazard,

"The playing surface in bunkers"

 This occurs despite the fact that many golf courses allocate significant resources to maintain bunkers in near perfect condition. A good argument can be made since

the bunker is a hazard,

inconsistency in the sand is a reasonable expectation. In reality, consistency is impossible to achieve anyway, since bunkers are not uniform in shape, size, or depth and the sand itself changes over time. Sand depth varies throughout the bunker, the sand is deeper in the bottom of the bunker and shallower on the sloping bunker face.  The minimum recommended sand depth on the bottom of the bunker is 4". Attempting to maintain this 4" depth on the bunker face may result in "fried egg lies". A condition so named when a golf ball becomes embedded in the sand. Since there are varying sand depths in bunkers this results in varying moisture levels in the sand and varying moisture levels quickly impacts the sands playing quality.
 For example, many bunkers have steep sloping sand faces that are difficult to maintain. During heavy rains, the sand is dislodged and replaced the sand is loosened and more proned to "fried egg lies".
 In contrast, undisturbed sand produces a much firmer surface. When sand is washed off the bunker face it mixes with the underlying soil, which changes  playing quality. Eventually this results in poor drainage and bunkers that may end up looking like a water hazard.
 Ultimately, it's impossible to achieve consistency and playing quality from one bunker to the next. Skilled players learn to develop a feel fro the condition of the sand and adjust there shot accordingly.

USGA Golf Etiquette

Care of the Course

Bunkers

Before leaving a bunker, players should carefully fill up and smooth over all holes and footprints made by them and any nearby made by others. If a rake is within reasonable proximity of the bunker, the rake should be used for this purpose

Repair of Divots, Ball-Marks and Damage by Shoes

Players should carefully repair any divot holes made by them and any damage to the putting green made by the impact of a ball (whether or not made by the player himself). On completion of the hole by all players in the group, damage to the putting green caused by golf shoes should be repaired.

Preventing Unnecessary Damage

Players should avoid causing damage to the course by removing divots when taking practice swings or by hitting the head of a club into the ground, whether in anger or for any other reason.

Players should ensure that no damage is done to the putting green when putting down bags or the flagstick.

In order to avoid damaging the hole, players and caddies should not stand too close to the hole and should take care during the handling of the flagstick and the removal of a ball from the hole. The head of a club should not be used to remove a ball from the hole.

Players should not lean on their clubs when on the putting green, particularly when removing the ball from the hole.

The flagstick should be properly replaced in the hole before players leave the putting green.

Local notices regulating the movement of golf carts should be strictly observed

USGA Golf Etiquette

Pace of Play

Play at Good Pace and Keep Up

Players should play at a good pace. The Committee may establish pace of play guidelines that all players should follow.

It is a group's responsibility to keep up with the group in front. If it loses a clear hole and it is delaying the group behind, it should invite the group behind to play through, irrespective of the number of players in that group.


Be Ready to Play

Players should be ready to play as soon as it is their turn to play. When playing on or near the putting green, they should leave their bags or carts in such a position as will enable quick movement off the green and towards the next tee. When the play of a hole has been completed, players should immediately leave the putting green.

Lost Ball

If a player believes his ball may be lost outside a water hazard or is out of bounds, to save time, he should play a provisional ball.

Players searching for a ball should signal the players in the group behind them to play through as soon as it becomes apparent that the ball will not easily be found.

They should not search for five minutes before doing so. Having allowed the group behind to play through, they should not continue play until that group has passed and is out of range.

USGA Golf Etiquette

Safety

Players should ensure that no one is standing close by or in a position to be hit by the club, the ball or any stones, pebbles, twigs or the like when they make a stroke or practice swing.

Players should not play until the players in front are out of range.

Players should always alert greenstaff nearby or ahead when they are about to make a stroke that might endanger them.

If a player plays a ball in a direction where there is a danger of hitting someone, he should immediately shout a warning. The traditional word of warning in such a situation is "fore."

Understanding Frost

 Some golfers find it hard to believe that simply walking across a frosted putting green early in the morning is enough to cause damage that will be viewed by golfers. But the proof is in the dead grass that shows up in each footprint a few days later. keep in mind, a group of four typically takes up to 300 footsteps or more on each green.
 It's not completely understood when frost will cause damage, so the decision to keep traffic off the golf course has to be made conservatively to protect the condition of the golf course. That's why most golf courses delay starting times in the morning until the frost has melted.
 Frost is essential frozen dew, the ice crystals that form on the outside of the plant also can form on the inside of the grass blade. The grass plant normally resilient to a persons footsteps becomes more brittle and fragile when ice crystals form. The damage is amplified when the plant is mowed down as is on a putting green. When the plant is in this condition, the added pressure from a footstep causes the plant cells to rupture and the plant is often unable to repair itself. You won't see the damage right away but it will show up in the following days as the plant starts to die.
 The next time the pro shop informs you a delayed starting time due to a frost; Take the time to enjoy an extra cup of coffee. Knowing that you are doing your part to keep the golf course in good condition.

Good Bunker Etiquette

 Most golfers learn early on they should clean up after playing a stroke from the bunker.
 Smoothing out the footprints and suppression is a task that should be done every time!!!
 But many golfers are unaware that there is more to good bunker etiquette that simply just smoothing the surface. First, always use a rake to smooth the sand surface!!! Trying to smooth footprints and the suppression with your foot or the back of the golf club accomplishes very little.
 When raking sand towards the edge of the bunker, do not pull large amounts of sand over the edge. Doing so, can result in damage to the mowing equipment.
 When finished with the rake, place it near the bunker in a location that will reduce the chances of it coming into play. The USGA recommends placing the rake outside the bunker and parallel to the line of play. Preferably away from the target line between the fairway and the green. This is to reduce the chance of the rake influencing the players ball.
 Some golf courses prefer that the rake be placed in the bunker, if this is the case place the rake in a flat portion of the bunker. If the rake is placed on a steep face of the bunker it can easily result in a ball lodging up against the rake on the up slope. When the rake is moved the ball can also move and then will have to be replaced under the USGA rules of golf
 Always enter and exit the bunker on the low side. Climbing in and out of high sides causes major damage to the bunker face and the surroundings side.
 Follow the same path in and out of the bunker. This reduces the amount of raking necessary to repair the surface for the next player.
 Take the time to fix the damage you have caused and any nearby damage someone else might have left behind.
 Bunker maintenance is an extremely expensive part of taking care of the course. Golfers can free up workers for many other tasks simply by practicing good bunker etiquette.

 In my experience, there are way too many opinions about the correct placements of bunkers. So I simply ask players to replace the rake as they would want to find it when they approach a bunker. Let's take care of each other and respect the players that are still to come.

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Rain Gear

 Thought everyone would get a good laugh out of this photo. The photo is an employee of ours down here in the golf course maintenance department.
 Sergio Fernandez (Checo) is well protected for wet and cold conditions. Checo is a 22 year employee to Willow Fork CC. He is an outstanding employee to the company and is dedicated as well. Not to many people can keep up with his work quality and timing of completing assignments.

 If you see Checo on the course sometime, feel free to stop and say hello. He enjoys visiting with the members while on duty. Checo and his partner Serafin Gomez also do lawn maintenance for a number of the homeowners around the course.

The Disease Dilemma

This article brings out some of the thoughts and decisions that are made when it comes to disease pressure on the greens. The disease pressure has changed tremendously in last 10 years. So we as Superintendents have to be aware of the changes coming. Ccontinuous education is offered to us by many of the manufacturers such as Syngenta, Dow Chemical, BASF, Bayer Science along with our National, State, and Local Superintendents Associations.


With the weather getting warmer, the window for turf disease is getting wider. What do fungicide manufacturers think of the phenomenon?

So much for the tattered manila folder in your filing cabinet that contains your turf disease records, including the date you make your first preventive fungicide spray of the season.

 Considering the warming trend over the past few years - the first eight months of 2012 were the hottest ever recorded in the continental U.S., and the summer period of June, July and August was the third hottest ever - your turf disease records are as out of date as the fax machine collecting dust behind the stack of golf magazines in your office.
 Thanks to an extremely fickle Mother Nature, it's getting difficult to gauge a fungicide program. The growing period for bentgrass and bermudagrass is getting as long as the drawn-out NBA season, which means a wider window for disease pressure.
 That window opened in March, when temperatures hit 80 throughout the country, and still hadn't closed in late October. Many superintendents made their first applications for dollar spot in February and March. The summer was hot and dry in the Midwest, so disease pressure was not as high as it has been in the past. But with hot, wet conditions on the East Coast, disease pressure was soaring. Superintendents in the lower transition zone who maintain bentgrass greens had a particularly long season.
"The warmer temperatures have certainly extended the period of time in which turf diseases can be problematic," says Jill Calabro, regional field development manager for Valent U.S.A.
If the warming trend continues, golf course superintendents wonder what adjustments they'll have to make to their fungicide programs.
Will they have to spray earlier, more often and later into the season?
Will they see certain diseases earlier than usual?
Could they see new diseases because of the warming trend?
"The weather the past few years has brought superintendents back to the reality that you have to expect the unexpected every year when you are growing turf," says Matthew Seibel, territory sales manager of the Great Lakes region for Arysta LifeScience.
What's causing it?

 So, what's causing the warming trend? Conventional wisdom points to global warming.
 Consider that average temperatures have climbed 1.4 degrees Fahrenheit around the world since 1880, according to the National Aeronautics and Space Administration. The United Nations' Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change says that 11 of the past 12 years are among the dozen warmest since 1850.
While Seibel isn't so sure global warming is to blame, he can't help but notice the extremes in the weather the past few years.

"The past three years have been pretty brutal for managing turf," he says.

Calabro believes that global warming is what's causing the planet to heat up.

"There's a tremendous amount of evidence that points to the fact that we are definitely in a warming trend, and it doesn't seem to be natural," she adds.

 Jerry Corbett, technical services/product development manager for Quali-Pro, thinks that weather patterns work in 20-year cycles, and the cycle is currently in a warming pattern. Besides, the weather is always changing, he says.
Lane Tredway, senior technical field representative for Syngenta, says he can't make an educated guess on what's causing the warming trend, but that it's easy to blame a new disease outbreak or a new disease trend on it.



"In reality, there are so many other things that influence turf that could be leading to that change," Tredway adds.

 Owen Towne, president of Phoenix/UPI, gives credence to the fact that the temperature is rising, but whether it's global warming or not, it really doesn't matter, he says.

"Whatever the reason, it's incumbent on the supplier to make sure superintendents have the products they need based on the weather they're experiencing at that point and time," Towne states.

 Corbett predicts that fungicide sales will be generally higher this year because of the mild winter across the country. But Calabro isn't so sure because she says overall pesticide applications have been reduced because of decreased maintenance budgets.

"My sense is we aren't seeing an increase in fungicide use because superintendents are being more efficient with their applications and selecting materials where they can target several diseases at once," Calabro explains.

 Jimmy Johnson, fungicide product manager for Environmental Science, a division of Bayer CropScience, says the number of fungicide applications may have decreased the past few years because superintendents have been using other tools to maintain healthy turf and prevent disease, from cultural practices to plant health-related products.


"There are a lot more preventive tools today than there were 10 years ago," Johnson adds. "I see that trend continuing."

The impact

 Global warming or not, the warming planet is impacting superintendents' fungicide programs around the country.





 Quali-Pro's Jerry Corbett says the onslaught of several diseases at once were hard to identify.
 Calabro says disease was "all over the place" last spring. Many diseases were coming up at once. For instance, summer patch occurred about one month early, around the same time as dollar spot.
 Corbett says the onslaught of several diseases at once - which he calls complex diseases - were difficult to identify. He notes that superintendents on the East Coast saw more dollar spot and anthracnose on their courses than they ever have. Corbett says anthracnose wasn't the problem 10 years ago that it is now.

"The talk then was always about dollar spot, brown patch and Pythium," Corbett says. "Now I hear more about anthracnose and odd diseases like yellow ring patch."

 With longer growing conditions, superintendents can count on dollar spot pressure lasting longer, too, says Kyle Miller, senior technical specialist for BASF. Because they're only allowed to spray chlorothalonil four times a year, superintendents may have to find one or two more fungicides to use in rotation with chlorothalonil. The longer dollar spot persists, the greater the potential for it to become resistant to fungicides used in rotation with chlorothalonil.



"That's up to the superintendent to do what he needs to do to keep that from occurring," Miller says. "There are a lot of fungicides to choose from, so it shouldn't be an issue. But superintendents have favorite fungicides and tend to overuse them at times."


 The wider window also affects applications for snow mold control, Miller notes. Superintendents prefer to apply fungicide for snow mold soon before a snow cover, which slows down the degradation of the fungicide in the soil. But if the snow never comes, then the fungicide degrades faster, which means they might have to make another application in January, he says.
 It's not just the heat that's beating up bentgrass, Miller adds. It's the maintenance, too.

"We've gone through a period where we continue to give golfers the highest turf quality possible and that means more management of the turf, such as lower mowing heights and rolling," Miller says. "The turf is under more stress because of that."



 Combined with the severe heat and longer growing conditions, "it just makes things twice as bad," Miller says.
 Towne says current fungicides are so effective at treating the major diseases that they give secondary diseases a chance to emerge, such as Rhizoctonia.

"We've done a better job of controlling primary diseases, but the secondary or tertiary diseases could become more common," he adds.

 In the transition zone, one way superintendents are dealing with heat-related disease on cool-season turf is by converting to warm-season turf. Golf courses throughout the transition zone have been switching greens from bentgrass to ultradwarf bermudagrass.
 Syngenta's Lane Tredway says superintendents can keep up with what's going on with turf disease through social media like Twitter and Facebook, as well as other superintendents' blogs.
 Corbett says ultradwarf bermudagrass can get its share of disease, too. In fact, he says dollar spot is becoming more of a problem on it. Also, in recent years, some courses from the Carolinas to Texas are dealing with the Rhizoctonia leaf and sheath spot on bermudagrass greens.

"In the heat of the summer, when its 95 degrees and high humidity, the bermudagrass won't die," Corbett says, "but you still have to keep disease under control. "

 The more bermudagrass that's planted, the greater the disease pressure, Tredway adds.

"Any time we change something in terms of what grass we're growing and how we're managing that grass, Mother Nature will respond with new pests," he adds.


Syngenta's Lane Tredway says superintendents can keep up with what's going on with turf disease through social media like Twitter and Facebook, as well as other superintendents' blogs. 

Sound advice

 If superintendents learned one thing from 2012, which could go down as the warmest year in history, it was that they have to be ready at all times for whatever Mother Nature throws at them.

"Be prepared to do battle," Miller says.

 Regarding dollar spot control, superintendents can get a leg up on it by treating for it in the late fall, even if it isn't visible, Miller notes. That way, the dollar spot inoculum in the soil is reduced come spring.
 Corbett advises superintendents to photograph the diseases they see on the course and makes notes about the conditions when they occur. And when treating, don't forget to rotate fungicides. And when rotating, don't combine the same mode of action.

"In other words, don't rotate a DMI (demethylation inhibitor) with a DMI," Corbett adds.

 Towne advises superintendents to stop using fungicides that contain solvents that can burn turf in hot weather.
 One of the best ways for superintendents to treat disease complexes is by using combination products, experts say. Many chemical manufacturers have released (and will continue to release) combination products to achieve broad-spectrum disease control.
"That's the key," says Corbett, noting that Quali-Pro has a new fungicide coming out next year that contains four active ingredients.
 Corbett also suggests that superintendents take advantage of the communication tools at their disposal, such as weather apps that can be downloaded to smartphones.
 Tredway says superintendents can keep up with what's going on with turf disease through social media like Twitter and Facebook, as well as other superintendents' blogs.



One of the best ways for superintendents to treat disease complexes is by using combination products. 

 One of the best ways for superintendents to treat disease complexes is by using combination products.

"Social media gives superintendents a way to connect with one another in real time," he adds. "I encourage superintendents to get connected, whether it's with their local universities, extension specialists or their colleagues, so they can form support networks."

 Superintendents should also attend local field day events, Calabro says.

"That's where you find out what the new problems are and what the new products are [to treat them]," she notes.

 Johnson points out that fungicide suppliers also have to do their part. When turf disease arrived earlier this year, Johnson realized that Bayer had to work with its distributors to make sure certain fungicides were available when they needed to be.

Manufacturers' plans

 It's tough to create new fungicides if you don't know what diseases will be prevalent in 10 years, which is the time it usually takes for a new active ingredient to reach the market. But fungicide manufacturers know they have to stay on top of things.

"If we have a bigger window for disease pressure, we just can't keep throwing the same products at them," Seibel says. "We have to bring new products to the table to meet the demands."

Oftentimes, it's a balancing act.

"We're looking for solutions to address future needs while taking into account the concerns and issues of the day," Johnson says.

 While BASF continues to identify fungicides to provide solutions to turf disease problems, the company is researching other ways to help turfgrass make it through stressful times, Miller says. That would be the company's plant health focus. BASF is not alone in that initiative. Bayer, Syngenta and other companies are also going down that path.
 Thanks to the warming trend, Mother Nature has thrown down a gauntlet of challenges for superintendents, but fungicide manufacturers face their own demands.



"Every day is a new adventure," Towne says.

Putting Green Drainage

 After finishing out #5 green, we moved over to #14 green and repaired the drainage there as well. On hole #14 we became aware that there was a problem in the drainage line back in the summer months. We found a section twenty five to thirty five feet long that the pipe was filled with roots and therefore no water was allowed to drain out to the outlet. This repair has been done and we have now moved to the putting green.

Putting Green:

 There has been suspicion that the drainage did not work here, but no facts. So the hunt was on to locate any drain pipes leaving the putting green. The first area we felt quite certain that a drain line existed was near the Memorial Garden. Several years ago back during the American Golf era part of the putting green was removed and re-contoured so that surface water could drain from the putting surface (a bad construction design).

This pictures was our first indication that there are issues with the drain line. This particular find, the pipe was crushed, and then to find 3 other pipes next to it that simply dead ended??? This was our first time to locate the drain line--now we needed to find a end closer to the green.

After some extensive searching we finally located a pipe. Problem is (take a look at the photo) the pipe was separated plus there was no water to speak of.
From my point of view; if this pipe was actually draining the green then where is the water once this end was opened??? Not satisfied that this is for real.

Once these two ends were located a water hose was then forced up into the hose, problem was the hose only went three to four feet in and the water was coming out the end where the hose started. Still not making alot of sense, so the search goes on.

Now, we are really confused*%!? If you can see where the shovel handle is showing there is a piece of red tape around the handle near the drain pipe.
The pictures above are exposing the pipe you can see here, however another pipe is now below the original pipe located.
 The lower pictures clearly shows it. Turns out that the pipe on top dead ended and was simply laying on top of the bottom pipe. The bottom pipe dead ended was just laying under the upper pipe. So today all together excess lines have been removed and only one drain is present and is hooked up together. Huge !!!

This last picture is the second drain line found that goes under #1 blue tee. So if all information serves me correctly. these types of damage usually occur during construction phases. Has this pipe plus the one on #4, and #5 been this way since the 1990's????

Only time will tell us the truth, if this is the real factor of what causes complication to the turf. Can't wait till February and March!

I'll update as we finish up the putting green

Willy Plowman

Golf Course Superintendent



Playing Defense Is a Strength,

 I thought this article really illustrates what is in my mind when it comes times to make decisions on which direction to choose in my management strategies, when it comes to your greens. I thought I would share this, so if any of you see me standing on a green starring it down hard, you know that I'm thinking about these strategies.

Playing Defense Is a Strength, Not a Weakness

Sometimes knowing what NOT to do is most important!

 Weather is, by nature, unpredictable and many times one must react to how turf responds to adverse conditions.
 Golf course superintendents try to prepare for every possible scenario when conditioning turf for play. However, the weather is unpredictable and we often find ourselves reacting to how the turf responds to adverse environmental conditions. It is impossible to prepare for all potential weather factors. Dealing with the unexpected and reacting to turfgrass response is a big part of golf course maintenance. Playing defense is essential at times to successfully maintain the course in a consistent manner.
 For the golf course superintendent, playing defense begins with a good offense. Implementing that offense means having the time and resources to strengthen turf health and prepare it for play. Doing the right thing at the right time, or backing off and not doing something when environmental conditions warrant, can make all the difference in turf performance as the season unfolds. Written golf course maintenance standards should define the criteria for turf performance. The scheduling of aeration, mowing frequency, and where and when water is applied to each playing area are examples of important practices included in written maintenance standards. It may seem like an oversimplification, but aeration stimulates root growth, timely irrigation allows roots to be maintained and well defined, and reasonable course maintenance standards help ensure that turf health is not compromised by an irrational conditioning request or demand. All too often, agronomic programs are compromised because necessary procedures are not prioritized to achieve the healthiest turf possible. The golf course is there for golfers, and plenty of play provides the revenue needed to support maintenance costs. Yet, there must be a level of cooperation between golfers and the superintendent to achieve the level of consistency desired throughout the season. That might mean golfers tolerating a little inconvenience while defensive measures are put in place to prepare for worst-case scenarios. Core aerating during the fall or spring in advance of summer stress is the most obvious example.
 Most courses look and perform well during mild spring weather, provided that turf survived the winter unblemished. Turf performance during the dog days of summer, however, is another matter. The dynamic nature of turfgrass management dictates that turf managers must react to uncontrollable weather variables come summer, no matter how well he or she prepared in the spring. Those reactions can be as complicated as adjusting fertility plans to ensure the turf thrives, e.g., switching to a fertilizer with a different nitrogen source, or as simple as not performing a common task such as vertical mowing because of adverse weather conditions.

SOME GAME PLAN DOS
 Schedule aeration when it will be most beneficial for the turf and not based on when it will be least disruptive to play. There have been many articles written about aeration, and all focus on managing the balance between soil, water, and air. Properly managing this balance is an important defensive measure for turf performance and is especially critical to turf survival during stressful weather. Superintendents now have more options than ever to aerate golf course turf, especially putting greens. Standard aeration and linear aeration injection of sand or water can be used for both short- and long-term benefits. Treatments may be conducted to achieve the desired effect while minimizing surface disruption. However, some level of disruption is unavoidable when completing aeration that is needed to defend against turf decline during summer weather conditions. It is unrealistic for golfers to expect that the turf can perform consistently well without aeration procedures. 
 Know the actual mowing height in the field, not just the bench setting in the maintenance facility. Do not assume mowers will perform the same in the field during all weather conditions. If the turf swells from humidity, for example, it is more susceptible to scalping and the height of cut may need to be raised to avoid turf injury. Quality of cut is more important than height of cut in the field, and to minimize damage to turf it is necessary to make adjustments. If mowers are cutting too close in the field, then it is only a matter of time before turf damage occurs. Surface performance is not solely dependent upon mowing height. Know the actual mowing height in the field, and this can be accurately determined using a prism gauge. A mower’s bench setting is just a starting point when adjustments in the field are needed in response to environmental conditions. Topdress more or less in response to the growth rate of the turf. Know what needs to be accomplished every time topdressing is applied. While the focus early in the season is to dilute organic matter, later in the season the same amount of sand could damage leaf blades rather than protect them. Some topdressing is good because it helps to maintain water infiltration while creating a smoother and firmer playing surface. Too much topdressing can wreak havoc with mowers, require more brushing to move the sand into the canopy, and result in bruised turf that is predisposed to weather stress. The amount of topdressing applied at any one time can be controlled, but the weather cannot. If the turf is bruised or weakened by topdressing at the wrong time, decline during difficult weather can be an issue. Be willing to limit or suspend topdressing operations during stressful weather conditions and you will save grass. Topdress more or less in response to the turf growth rate, and be willing to adjust or even suspend certain procedures should environmental conditions become too stressful.
 Roll to complement mowing procedures. The use of rolling as a key component of putting surface preparation is a very effective defensive strategy. Instruct operators to change directions in different places as they traverse back and forth across each green. Rolling can be a key defensive strategy for putting surface preparation. Operators should exercise caution when traversing back and forth over putting surfaces, and wear damage can be further minimized when starting and stopping points are frequently altered. For example, if rolling is performed four days a week, the spot where the roller stops and starts to change direction should not be in the same location each time. Stopping or starting abruptly can bruise the turf. A defensive sequence for example, would be to roll through the collar the first day, stop and transition on the collar the second day, transition on the green the third day, and target roll near the hole location only on the fourth day. Or, if operators are trained carefully using side-to-side rollers, many can start and stop safely on the putting surface so as to never add mechanical traffic to putting green cleanup laps, collars, or green surrounds. Make every effort to control even the smallest degree of stress from rolling practices.
 Putting surface conditions can be improved by brushing, grooming, and vertical mowing. However, use these techniques with discretion and good judgment, because they remove more grass from the greens compared to regular mowing. Do not allow the vocal minority of golfers to dictate what they think should be done for a short term effect. It is never bad to have plenty of healthy grass on a putting surface. Ball roll can be managed by implementing timely procedures, and the focus should remain on the long term benefits a practice provides. For example, vertical mowing can be used to promote upright growth by stimulating new tillering, but this practice can be harmful if grass is already under stress or if stressful conditions are predicted in the immediate future. Predisposing turf to environmental stress is never beneficial, and weakening the grass is never good.
 On many occasions we hear golfers say, “Don’t you think there is too much grass on the greens? Shouldn’t we verticut them to thin the stand of grass?” And we have heard equally often from superintendents, “I wish I had not verticut when I did.”
 While timely vertical mowing is very productive, overusing the strategy can push turf over the edge. Being able to politely say “no” is part of playing defense.
 Fertilize the grass. Grow healthy grass first and then condition it for play. Turf will better tolerate stressful weather, disease activity, and other pests when it is growing at a controlled rate. Research has shown that stress related diseases such as anthracnose cause less injury to turf when the grass is properly fertilized. Additionally, the first line of defense against weed encroachment is a dense stand of turf. Fertilizing in a regimented manner, as dictated by soil test results and root health, makes a difference. Timely applications of nitrogen stimulate uptake of other essential nutrients. Be willing to make adjustments that allow nutrients to be applied as frequently as needed. At times, smaller amounts of fertilizer applied more frequently allow turf to better tolerate harsh weather and provide more consistent playing conditions.
 Set up mowers to limit mechanical stress. If using grooved front rollers on mowers, change to solid rollers sooner rather than later in the season to limit mechanical stress on the greens in preparation for summer. In fact, many superintendents now use solid front rollers on their mowers year-round and still provide excellent playing surfaces.
 Monitor equipment operators to ensure that baskets do not become too full when mowing greens. The added weight of grass clippings in mower baskets can cause turf injury or result in a poor quality of cut. Empty the baskets more frequently when grass is growing aggressively in the spring and fall. Mow early in the morning when temperatures are lower, and reduce double cutting if a sharp, well-adjusted mower delivers the desired effect after a single cut. Superintendents now have the option to use mower reels with 11, 14, or 15 blades. Mowers equipped with these new blade options offer a greater level of mowing efficiency without having to rely solely on multiple mowings to achieve desired surface quality.
Golf course equipment managers are an important ingredient for success. They are responsible for setting up mowers that are sharp and properly adjusted before use each day. This is a Best Management Practice (BMP). If mowers are not well adjusted and sharp, the grass will be bruised and torn rather than cleanly cut. Bruises are potential infection sites for disease, and playing conditions are compromised when turf is ragged, torn, and bruised. It is no surprise that sharp and properly adjusted mowers are a key component to an effective defensive strategy that reduces turf stress.

SOME GAME PLAN DON’TS

 Don’t mow too low. We have seen a change in maintenance procedures on putting greens in recent years that aid turf health while producing the same or even better playing conditions. Most notably, combinations of mowing and rolling are now used in many instances instead of ultra-low mowing heights and increased mowing frequencies to meet expectations for green speed and putting surface smoothness. This is very positive, because rolling strategies are far less stressful alternatives that can produce the same ball roll effect without mowing too low or too often.
 Don’t topdress according to the calendar. When topdressing, first consider the rate of sand to be applied and the method needed to incorporate the sand into the canopy. The same procedures used during the spring may have adverse effects if performed in the heat of summer. Dragging sand on a low-humidity day may cause damage, so pay attention to daily environmental conditions when topdressing. Once again, being able to adjust or say “no” can save grass.
 Don’t verticut too often or too aggressively. Infrequent use can be productive, while overuse will be harmful. The same goes for grooming. A little at the right time of year works well, but excessive grooming is damaging. When golfers ask if there is too much grass on the greens, simply say “thank you” for the compliment. Having a lot of grass provides options to achieve the desired surface presentation. Having no grass only provides for the use of one option — CLOSED FOR RECOVERY! Superintendents must be able to say “no” when conditions warrant. This decision should be supported by the green committee chairman, course owner, park administration, or other club officials. After all, you are protecting their primary asset.
 Having a course setup statement contained within a course standards document helps when preparing for and defending against uncontrollable weather variables. The business of turfgrass management is dynamic, and adjustments, as dictated by heat, humidity, moisture, and traffic, need to occur throughout the growing season. In a perfect world, it would never get above 85°F, humidity would be 40 percent or less, it would rain only at night, and golfers would agree with everything the superintendent wanted to do. In an ideal world, once a game plan is in place, nothing would change and the grass would be perfect! In the real world adjustment is the norm.
Don’t wear out the grass! Playing defense means that certain programs may be needed at specific times of the year. For example, as part of course maintenance, turning boards may be needed to protect turf on putting green collars when regular mowing is conducted. Using these boards requires increased labor, but it could pay off later in the season if turf loss is avoided. At the very least, have the option to use turning boards on weak areas of the collars or where it is difficult to maneuver mowers.
Don’t starve the grass for a short-term effect. Alter the frequency of nutrient applications to the grass to sustain growth. Uncontrollable factors may dictate that certain strategies or procedures need to be rescheduled because of the weather. For example, it may be necessary to vent, or lightly aerate, the turf more frequently because frequent rainfall causes saturated soil conditions. Venting will promote root growth, and adjusting the fertility program will maximize the benefit to turf health. Supply readily available nutrients to maintain plant health and resulting surface quality. Don’t wait until the turf declines to respond! Grow the grass.
 Finally, communicate at every opportunity regarding care of the golf course. Make yourself available to answer questions, even if immediate answers are not available. Use the support systems you have in place to respond promptly and effectively. And when you do respond, avoid speaking in “turfease.” Remember, a short period of slower greens is better than closure of a green for any length of time. Defensive management is about preserving turf health when environmental conditions dictate.

KEITH A. HAPP is a senior agronomist in the Mid-Atlantic Region, visiting courses in Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and West Virginia. Keith is a graduate of The Ohio State University and has a regional office in Pittsburgh, Pa., bringing him closer to golf facilities in the western portion of the Mid-Atlantic Region.
Green Section Record Vol. 50 (25)

November 30, 2012

#5 green drainage

 Many of you may have noticed our staff working just in the front of #5 green. As all of you know, this is one our greens that we have historically had problems with in the late winter to early spring. Our first intention is to find drainage pipes that have been crushed and/or damaged.
 Our first step is to locate the ends of the pipe in the lakes and/or drains, then we track the line until we difficulty moving forward. We then dig it up to take a look, so i wanted to share with you all what we found on #5 green.

This was our first dig after tracing the line some 40 feet from the edge of the lake. The hose had stopped moving forward on us and after several attempts to move forward no progress was made. We then traced it and marked the line with paint and dug. BINGO!

These next two pictures will show you what the pipe looked like. Some 40'0 of the pipe was crushed???

This discover was awesome for me, whenever grass does not perform well in a place that it should--That's telling you there's a problem in the underground world.

An additional discovery was made on how the drainage pipe ended??? This is the end of the piping in the pictures just above. The end of the pipe was buried along the edge of the bunker plus it had a rise over 14 inches-folks water does not drain uphill, another great discovery!

And guess what, another discovery was made On the left side of this bunker another drain pipe from the green was positioned the same way as the picture above showed and yes it was buried as well. WOW!

Finally in the end we now have all the crushed pipe replaced, both ends of the exposed piping is now connected together, plus one drain line now drains the greens to the lake.
In addition to the work we added a small future tool for us. At the end of the pipes at the edge of the lake, the pipes have concrete around them with the letter G for green or T for trap stenciled in. With concrete showing we'll be able to find them for sure.

We'll be moving on to #6 green next. Once the pipe is located all the same procedures will be followed to investigate any drainage issues. I do not expect to find drainage issues at #6 green only at the end of the piping, do I suspect the pipe may be clogged. 

This discovery 0n #5 green plus #4 green drainage was huge for us. However, only time will tell the truth if the drainage was the full issue. Let's hope so???

Thanks for all your support and patience while we are working in front of these greens while you all are playing golf.

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Ever wondered what fertilizers do for us or how many types of fertilizer there are? Here's a breakdown of the Macronutrients and Micronutrients.   Macronutrients

Nitrogen (N)

Nitrogen is a part of all living cells and is a necessary part of all proteins, enzymes and metabolic processes involved in the synthesis and transfer of energy. Nitrogen is a part of chlorophyll, the green pigment of the plant that is responsible for photosynthesis.  Helps plants with rapid growth, increasing seed and fruit production and improving the quality of leaf and forage crops.  Nitrogen often comes from fertilizer application and from the air (legumes get their N from the atmosphere, water or rainfall contributes very little nitrogen)

Phosphorus (P)

Like nitrogen, phosphorus (P) is an essential part of the process of photosynthesis.  Involved in the formation of all oils, sugars, starches, etc. Helps with the transformation of solar energy into chemical energy; proper plant maturation; withstanding stress. Effects rapid growth. Encourages blooming and root growth. Phosphorus often comes from fertilizer, bone meal, and superphosphate.

Potassium (K)

Potassium is absorbed by plants in larger amounts than any other mineral element except nitrogen and, in some cases, calcium.  Helps in the building of protein, photosynthesis, fruit quality and reduction of diseases. Potassium is supplied to plants by soil minerals, organic materials, and fertilizer.

Calcium (Ca)

Calcium, an essential part of plant cell wall structure, provides for normal transport and retention of other elements as well as strength in the plant. It is also thought to counteract the effect of alkali salts and organic acids within a plant.  Sources of calcium are dolomitic lime, gypsum, and superphosphate.

Magnesium (Mg)

Magnesium is ppart of the chlorophyll in all green plants and essential for photosynthesis. It also helps activate many plant enzymes needed for growth. Soil minerals, organic material, fertilizers, and dolomitic limestone are sources of magnesium for plants.

Sulfur (S)

Essential plant food for production of protein. Promotes activity and development of enzymes and vitamins. Helps in chlorophyll formation. Improves root growth and seed production. Helps with vigorous plant growth and resistance to cold!!!!! Sulfur may be supplied to the soil from rainwater. It is also added in some fertilizers as an impurity, especially the lower grade fertilizers. The use of gypsum also increases soil sulfur levels.

Micronutrients

Boron (B)

Helps in the use of nutrients and regulates other nutrients.  Aids production of sugar and carbohydrates.  Essential for seed and fruit development.  Sources of boron are organic matter and borax

Copper (Cu)

Important for reproductive growth. Aids in root metabolism and helps in the utilization of proteins.

Chloride (Cl)

Aids plant metabolism.  Chloride is found in the soil.

Iron (Fe)

Essential for formation of chlorophyll. Sources of iron are the soil, iron sulfate, iron chelate.

Manganese (Mn)

Functions with enzyme systems involved in breakdown of carbohydrates, and nitrogen metabolism.  Soil is a source of manganese.

Molybdenum (Mo)

Helps in the use of nitrogen Soil is a source of molybdenum.

Zinc (Zn)

Essential for the transformation of carbohydrates. Regulates consumption of sugars. Part of the enzyme systems which regulate plant growth.  Sources of zinc are soil, zinc oxide, zinc sulfate, zinc chelate.

90 Degree Rule

I took a picture of #9 fairway, showing the golf cart traffic.

There were 4 golf cart tracks up ahead that follwed a 90 degree rule?&@$#!

 

Wintergrass (ryegrass)

 Starting Monday October 29th, we will begin to put the rye grass seed down on the tee boxes throughout the course. This has been a traditional maintenance practice since the club opened in 1990. here's some key points to remember;

 * Keep in mind the tee marker settings may be out of whack for the next couple of weeks in order to get the best results for consistency.
 * Please play the tee box where the tee marker are located, our goal is to provide consistent looking tee boxes. When someone decides that they want to play one that has the seed all over the top of it, that takes away the consistency, seed is picked up on there shoes therefore removing it from the tee box and now planting it somewhere between the tee box and the cart path. That later becomes an eye sore.
 * May see the sprinklers running a little more often during the day hours as we are making an effort to keep the seed moist so that when the seed sprouts it can take root and live happily until the late spring early summer.

 Thank all of you for your cooperation and understanding.

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Phase II Removal of dead trees and stumps

We have officially began phase II of our tree maintenance program.

The dead trees on the driving range have been removed and the stumps are started on as well.

Willy Plowman

Trees and Fencelines

Some of you may have noticed a blue color around trees and/or along fence lines. This is a herbicide treatment with Round Up to help in controlling weeds in these areas.
Concerning to the fence lines: Basically I decide whether to spray the Round Up along the fence line on the golf course side of the homeowners property.
* 1st---I spray on the back side of all planters that are facing the golf course. This is a win win deal, the golf course wins because it cuts back in the amount of weed eating along fence lines saving labor for something else. The homeowner wins because the invasion of grass from the golf course is kept out of the planter beds, therefore less maintenance is required on the homeowners part.
* 2nd---I then decide if the entire fence line will be sprayed with Round Up. This is purely decided by the upkeep of the homeowners yard. If the grass looks good and the yard is kept up nicely I will usually avoid spraying along the fence line.
*3rd---Homeowners who keep up both sides of there fence lines, no Round Up application will be made. Thank You for taking pride in your back yard!!!

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Phase 1 tree trimming completed

There is a board posted on the east side of the golf shop that will list projects and general information about the golf course, There you can see the schedule that is set in order on trimming trees. I'll be good to you and share it now.

Phase 1; Trim trees above cart paths *Completed!

Phase 2; Cut down dead trees and remove existing stumps

Phase 3; Trim remaining trees on course
              * Holes #8 & #15 will be first in line

This project will be taking place through most of the winter months.

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Triangle planter #18 green

 For those of you playing golf here regular get to see the bricks just falling to pieces on the planter located between #18 green and putting green. We had originally discussed totally removing the planter and concreting the triangle area in. After discussion with some staff members and knowing the years of history behind this planter, we voted to keep it.
  Thursday Sept. 27th-Gerald and a couple of men from the golf course maintenance staff poured 36 bags of concrete. We want the forms to remain for a few days to allow all the concrete to dry.
 A huge THANK YOU to Gerald our Maintenance man to the entire facility, he handled this project along with the planter over by the new parking area at the driving range tee box.

So if you see him, give him a thank you!!!

Bayou along #1,2,3,7,8,9

 The Drainage Authority has been in process of removing the silt, weeds, and you name it, from the bottom of the drainage bayou from the Fry Road to the bridge at #7. With the good relationship that I carry with the Drainage Authority and contractor Champions Hydromulch, I was able to get them to stop at the #7 bridge until after the 2012 Ladies Six Shooter and the MGA's Member Guest. That would have smelted reeeeal good. I know you ladies would had enjoyed that for your day here at the club.
 Immediately following the Member Guest they are scheduled to begin removing the silt, weeds, and you name it, out of the bayou along the front 9. There will be heavy machiinery along the little ditch and/or the hazard lines on holes #1,2,3,7,8,9, & #18 green for several weeks to follow, so be good to them!!!

Thanks
Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Tree Trimming

Out tree trimming program has officially gotten under way for 2012. Here's the step's that will be followed. this trimming process is expected to last all the way into 2013.

1. Branches above the cart paths are first to be trimmed.

2. Dead trees removed and existing stumps to be lowered to ground level. We have approx. 40 to 50 dead trees to remove in result of the 2011 drought, at the same time we'll be looking for existing stumps to remove them as we make our way around.

3. Trees on the golf course trimmed. I think it safe to safe holes #8 & #15 are first on this list.

This trimming process is expected to last all the way into 2013. be patient with us, we'll get around. Also if you live on the golf course please trim your tree/trees and hedge lines. If the golf course is forced to it, we will cut everything back big time. I know as you being a homeowner you would not allow the golf course tree branches to grow to the ground in your back yard, let's trim and hedge up!!!

Thanks
Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Rain has been beneficial

 Looking back at 2011, the worst drought recorded in our history, not only the lack of rain but the heat was horrible itself. Well the weather has taken a change in 2012, rainfall has came back and temperatures are cooler.
 With rainfall includes some additional challenges in our golf course management program. Keeping the bunkers as nice as 2011 is abit more challenging because of the water that mother nature keeps dumping into them!!! I'm happy it's raining! Mowing the turf becomes abit more of a challenge, the mother nature rains have all the ingredients to making turf grow healthy and lush, and that it has done.
 The golf course maintenance staff is working hard to keeping the roughs under control especially surrounding the fairway cut. Good news is, it is now September and the temperatures are cooling and that means the turf is slowing down!!!
 Mostly important, the cool fronts bring in the flounder along the coast. Man, am I ready to catch a few!

Brown spots in roughs,etc.

In case you have noticed some large brown spots particulary in the roughs, this is a result of a herbicide treatment. I have been spot spraying Dallisgrass and Bahiagrass and there is a bunch of it in the outer roughs. however, I am pleased with the kill that it appears to be showing. Heck, what would I do next if I cleared all the weeds out???

Brown spots on the greens

If you have noticed some brown dots particularly around the edge of the green, nothing to worry about, this is a result of a herbicide burn in treating the Goosegrass that never seems to go away. Multiple herbicide application with the boom sprayer was made through out the growing season and what is still there---GOOSEGRASS. However for 2012 the Goosegrass has been under control compared to the past years.

July Rains

 I'm sure all of us can remember a year ago this time of the year, we were in the middle of a record setting drought here in southeast Texas plus the heat stayed in the 100's for record setting amount of days. Well what a change 2012 has brought us.
 July has brought some great rainfall to Willow Fork. I can't remember the last time I actually sat around during the day and watched it rain, it was nice. So far for the month of July 5.85" of rain has been recorded here, where a year ago July recoded .35"

 I wanted to give you all an update on the course conditions as of July 13th:

 Over 5" of rain has fallen in the last 13 days, fortunately the rains have been spread out and no flooding has taken place. However the course is very wet and the bunkers are washed down. I will also be keeping a close eye on the greens for any disease outbreak, going from cool wet conditions to hot steamy conditions while the turf is saturated sets up prime conditions for diseases. The height of cut has temporarily been raised in order to protect the turf from damages that are caused by diseases. Once the greens begin to dry out, we'll start lowering the cut.
 We have started pumping the water out of traps but will not start pushing up the sand until the chances of rain have gone way down. While the rains were occurring we did take advantage of weed-eating and edging the bunkers.
 Once the fairways begin to dry out we'll get right out and start mowing, that will be a journey. We mow fairways at 1/2", yesterday when I looked at the fairway cut it looked like it was a inch high or more.

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 The maintenance staff just asks our members to be patient, we'll be working hard and alot of hours to get the course back in our standard playing conditions as quickly as we can. For several days now, you may see a one of our guys mowing the drier areas on the course such as tee and green slopes and mounds in the roughs. We are simply trying to catch up and mow where we can, so please keep your golf cart on the cart path.


Thank You

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Seniors Member/Member

 Our Senior association are hosting the 1st Member/Member in 2012. Looks as if they may be having around the 52 player area, not bad for just getting started.
 The golf course conditions will be good. We have received rainfall twice so far in the month of June and only eight days into it. The golf course was fertilized just a week ago, so with the rainfall and fertility together that sets up the golf course for good playing conditions. The maintenance staff is preparing the course this week to get conditions set up for Tuesday and Wednesday next week. I promise you, the greens speed will not be like the MGA events however the greens should be rolling nicely.
 Good luck to all of you and play good golf!

Golf Cart Rules and Etiquette

After paying your greens fee and cart fee, but before you clamber into that golf cart and speed off to the first tee, make sure you know what the course's cart rules are. Are you allowed to drive the cart onto the fairway? Or does the course have restrictions in place? Sometimes, the golf cart rules change day-to-day at the same course, depending on conditions.
We'll go over the variations of golf cart rules you might see posted at your local golf courses, but first, here are a couple reminders of things you should never do in a golf cart:

• Never drive the cart within hazard boundary lines, or within about 10 yards of water hazards or bunkers, or within about 50 yards of greens (unless you're on a designated cart path, of course). These areas are especially susceptible to damage by the wheels of golf carts. Never drive onto or close to tee boxes, either, unless on the cart path.
• Never drive the cart through mud, on or off the fairway.
• Never drive through casual water on any part of the golf course (unless it's a little bit of water over a paved cart path). The wheels of the cart can do serious damage to the turf, including leaving ruts, in wet areas.
• Never go joyriding in the golf cart. In other words, don't act stupid! People do get injured in cart accidents. See golf cart safety for specific suggestions.

Now, as mentioned above, golf courses may post notices about specific golf cart rules depending on conditions at the course that day. These notices may be posted in the clubhouse; sometimes courses uses small signs they stick in the ground alongside the cart path on the route to the first tee. You should always ask when you check in what the course's standard golf cart rules are, then also be alert for any signage. What might the signage specify?
Cart Path Only
A "cart-path-only rule" is exactly what it sounds like: Keep your cart on the designated cart path at all times. Don't drive onto the grass.
Over time, golf carts speed up soil compaction, which can lead to less-than-ideal growing conditions for turfgrasses. And that can lead to less-than-ideal fairways for golfers. So even when "cart path only" is not in effect, it's a good idea to keep the cart on the designated path.
But when the rule is in effect, it's a requirement.
When "cart path only" is in effect, drive the cart on the designated path until you are parallel to where your golf ball rests on the course. Stop the cart, get out, pull a couple clubs (so you'll have some options when you reach your ball), and walk out to the ball.
90-Degree Rule In Effect
The "90-degree rule" means that the golf course is allowing carts onto the grass - but only at 90-degree angles from the cart path. In other words, don't drive the golf cart up the middle of the fairway from the tee box to your golf ball. Stay on the cart path until you are level with your golf ball, then make a 90-degreen turn off the cart path and drive straight across to the ball.
The "90-degree rule" minimizes the time a golf cart spends rolling over the grass, while still allowing convenience for golfers.
Cart Path Only on Holes X and X
A course may post signs that designate certain holes off-limits to carts, for example, "Cart path only on No. 4 and No. 16 today." In this situation, the course's regular golf cart rules apply (remember, ask when checking in), but on the specified holes you are required to keep the cart on the designed cart path. The reason is usually moisture on the specified holes - they may be too wet for carts - or ground under repair on the specified holes.
No Carts Beyond This Point
This sign is one you might see in a fairway as you close in on the green. Courses don't want golf carts near the putting green; the "no carts beyond this point" sign makes sure golfers get that message. Even if you are allowed to drive the cart on the fairway, be sure to observe these signs. When you see one, stop and return to the designated cart path before proceeding forward again.
This sign may also come in the form of an arrow pointing toward the cart path. The meaning is the same: Don't take the cart beyond this point on the fairway; go back to the cart path.
So, those are the signs golfers are most likely to see on a golf course regarding cart usage. Observe the signs - and don't forget to ask about golf cart rules when you check in.
A few more bits of golf cart etiquette:

• Always stay on designated cart paths on par-3 holes. Even if the course allows carts onto the fairways on par-4s and par-5s, stay off the grass on par-3s.
• Observe common-sense driving rules, just as you do in your car on the road. Be especially careful at any cart-path intersections and in areas where bottlenecks occur (see golf cart safety for specific safety suggestions).
• If you need to drive the cart quickly around the course (maybe you left a club behind a few holes back, maybe you badly need to find a restroom, etc.), be aware of golfers you are passing by. If a golfer is about to swing or attempt a putt, slow down as you approach and stop the cart until the golfer has completed his or her stroke. Carts are noisy. Be courteous. You wouldn't want someone else making noise during your backswing, don't do it to others with your cart.
• Along the same lines, many golf carts beep when they are in reverse. So if you need to put the cart in reverse, be aware of any golfers close to you and whether they are about to begin a stroke.
• When you finish a hole, walk off the green, get into the cart and move on to the next teeing ground before marking the scorecard. In this way, you won't hold up any group behind you that is waiting for the green to clear.

Greens Aerification April 23rd

 The greens were aerified on Monday April 23rd, and man did the need it. The last core removal aerification happened last year in June. The year two scheduled aerifications were cancelled due to the excessive heat and lack of rainfall. This was a huge setback in managing the organic layer and thatch build up. If one of the two or both was to get out of control, it would take nearly a full growing season to get the excessive amounts of thatch and organic build up removed from the profile.
 The ultradwarf bermudas require a great deal more of maintenance compared to the TifDwarf greens that was here for the first 16 years. One of my rules are "30 % of material from the profile must be removed on a yearly basis".
 Take our aerifications we do, by using a 3/8" side eject tine; We aerifiy on 1.5" centers that will remove
11% of the product--multiply that by three aerifications and you have 33% of product removed in a years time, awesome. . .
 Now comes the sand. I cannot stress the importance of the amount of sand needed, this is huge in coming weeks and months. When we top dress the greens during aerifications we want enough sand to fill every hole plus leave a nice layer on the green. As each day goes by after we have aerified the sand on top will move into any areas where the sand may have settled or sunk into a hole. By keeping a layer of sand on top the putting quality will improve in consistently true putt as far as speed and breakage. This area is HUGE, sand sand, and sand. I can't express it enough!!!!!!
 I would expect the recovery time to be a little slower than normal this spring. The morning temperature fell to 49 degrees the next day and continued in the 50 degree area for three straight days. Once morning temps are staying in the 70's grass will begin to grow a whole lot better.


Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Greens Condition update April 12, 2012

 This spring has been brutal as far as disease pressure. The folks from Bayer Science stated to me "If there are 10 turfgrass related diseases in 2012 anyone was susceptible to all ten turfgrass diseases". That is nearly an unheard of event in the turfgrass management programs.
 Many of our greens were affected by one disease or another, so several types of treatment had to be applied to knock off the disease and then a follow up had to be made to hopefully conquer it!
 I wanted to share the examples of diseases that were present on one green and not another and vis versa. Take #1, PG, green--Leaf Spot Disease--tissue related.
Take #3,4,5 Pythium Disease + Leaf Spot Disease--root rot related + tissue related.
Take #2,14 Pythium--root rot related.

Here was our weather conditions for January:
Average Low: 61 degrees
Average Hi: 68 degrees
Rainfall: 8.72"
Note: 20 days out of 31 were cloudy days-No Sunshine

Here was our weather conditions for February:
Average Low: 52 degrees
Average Hi: 67 degrees
Rainfall: 7.64"
Note: 21 days out of 29 were cloudy days-No Sunshine

The examples listed above shows average temperatures well above normal, rainfall well above normal, and extensive amounts of cloudy day; so here's the set up for disease.

**1st week of January-6" of rainfall occurred temperatures went up into the 80's and no sunshine to speak of for 7 to 10 days now. Huge outbreak of Blight/leaf Spot Disease in the Houston area.
**1st of February 5" of rainfall occurred and 12 days now without sunshine and temperatures soared up to the 80's and then dropped to the 40's. The outbreak of leaf Spot/Blight Disease re-occurred and moved into The Melting out Disease. Plus now Pythium disease in the crown of the plant has broke out as well. Two diseases going on at one time, not something we deal with everyday folks.

 Extensive fungicide applications were applied and weekly fertilizer applications are being applied to the necessary areas for recovery. I'm happy to tell you the greens are recovering well and as soon as we get morning temperatures into the mid 7o" consistently day in and day out---look out the greens are going to explode in growth and then I'll be trying to slow down the growth in order to putting speeds up.
 Thanks to all of you for your understanding and patience with a couple of the green.

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent