Golf Cart Rules and Etiquette

Observe the Rules of the Cart Paths

• golf etiquette
• golf safety

Know and observe golf cart rules and etiquette guidelines.

After paying your greens fee and cart fee, but before you clamber into that golf cart and speed off to the first tee, make sure you know what the course's cart rules are. Are you allowed to drive the cart onto the fairway? Or does the course have restrictions in place? Sometimes, the golf cart rules change day-to-day at the same course, depending on conditions. We'll go over the variations of golf cart rules you might see posted at your local golf courses, but first, here are a couple reminders of things you should never do in a golf cart:

• Never drive the cart within hazard boundary lines, or within about 10 yards of water hazards or bunkers, or within about 50 yards of greens (unless you're on a designated cart path, of course). These areas are especially susceptible to damage by the wheels of golf carts. Never drive onto or close to tee boxes, either, unless on the cart path.
• Never drive the cart through mud, on or off the fairway.
• Never drive through casual water on any part of the golf course (unless it's a little bit of water over a paved cart path). The wheels of the cart can do serious damage to the turf, including leaving ruts, in wet areas.
• Never go joyriding in the golf cart. In other words, don't act stupid! People do get injured in cart accidents. See golf cart safety for specific suggestions.

Now, as mentioned above, golf courses may post notices about specific golf cart rules depending on conditions at the course that day. These notices may be posted in the clubhouse; sometimes courses uses small signs they stick in the ground alongside the cart path on the route to the first tee. You should always ask when you check in what the course's standard golf cart rules are, then also be alert for any signage. What might the signage specify? Cart Path Only
A "cart-path-only rule" is exactly what it sounds like: Keep your cart on the designated cart path at all times. Don't drive onto the grass.
Over time, golf carts speed up soil compaction, which can lead to less-than-ideal growing conditions for turfgrasses. And that can lead to less-than-ideal fairways for golfers. So even when "cart path only" is not in effect, it's a good idea to keep the cart on the designated path.
But when the rule is in effect, it's a requirement.
When "cart path only" is in effect, drive the cart on the designated path until you are parallel to where your golf ball rests on the course. Stop the cart, get out, pull a couple clubs (so you'll have some options when you reach your ball), and walk out to the ball.

90-Degree Rule In Effect

The "90-degree rule" means
that the golf course is allowing carts onto the grass 
but only at 90-degree angles from the cart path.
In other words, don't drive the golf cart up the middle of the fairway
from the tee box to your golf ball.
Stay on the cart path until you are at the same distance as your golf ball,
then turn off the cart path and drive straight to the ball.

The "90-degree rule" minimizes the time a golf cart spends rolling over the grass, while still allowing convenience for golfers.
Cart Path Only on Holes X and X
A course may post signs that designate certain holes off-limits to carts, for example, "Cart path only on No. 4 and No. 16 today." In this situation, the course's regular golf cart rules apply (remember, ask when checking in), but on the specified holes you are required to keep the cart on the designed cart path. The reason is usually moisture on the specified holes - they may be too wet for carts - or ground under repair on the specified holes.
No Carts Beyond This Point
This sign is one you might see in a fairway as you close in on the green. Courses don't want golf carts near the putting green; the "no carts beyond this point" sign makes sure golfers get that message. Even if you are allowed to drive the cart on the fairway, be sure to observe these signs. When you see one, stop and return to the designated cart path before proceeding forward again.
This sign may also come in the form of an arrow pointing toward the cart path. The meaning is the same: Don't take the cart beyond this point on the fairway; go back to the cart path.
So, those are the signs golfers are most likely to see on a golf course regarding cart usage. Observe the signs - and don't forget to ask about golf cart rules when you check in.
A few more bits of golf cart etiquette:

• Always stay on designated cart paths on par-3 holes. Even if the course allows carts onto the fairways on par-4s and par-5s, stay off the grass on par-3s.
• Observe common-sense driving rules, just as do in your car on the road. Be especially careful at any cart-path intersections and in areas where bottlenecks occur (see golf cart safety for specific safety suggestions).
• If you need to drive the cart quickly around the course (maybe you left a club behind a few holes back, maybe you badly need to find a restroom, etc.), be aware of golfers you are passing by. If a golfer is about to swing or attempt a putt, slow down as you approach and stop the cart until the golfer has completed his or her stroke. Carts are noisy. Be courteous. You wouldn't want someone else making noise during your backswing, don't do it to others with your cart.
• Along the same lines, many golf carts beep when they are in reverse. So if you need to put the cart in reverse, be aware of any golfers close to you and whether they are about to begin a stroke.
• When you finish a hole, walk off the green, get into the cart and move on to the next teeing ground before marking the scorecard. In this way, you won't hold up any group behind you that is waiting for the green to clear.

How to Rake Sand Bunkers

Find the Best Entry and Exit Point

Locate the lowest spot around the edge of the bunker that is conventient to your golf ball. This will be your entry and exit point. Identifying this spot keeps you from walking down a steep facing (possibly damaging the turf), stepping off a higher rim (leaving deeper footprints), or having to walk a longer distance which would require raking a greater area of sand.

Enter the Bunker with Rake

Once you've identified the most convenient low spot from which to enter and exit ... enter! Notice that the golfer is carrying the rake into the bunker with him. Contrary to what some golfers believe, it is not only within the rules to take a rake into a bunker with you, it is advisable to do so because it speeds up the process. (Note: Be sure you do not allow the rake to touch the sand, except when you drop it before playing the shot. If you do anything with the rake - or your club - that can be construed as "testing the condition of the hazard," then you are in violation of the rules. For more on this, see our Rules FAQ, "Is it illegal to take a rake into a bunker?")

Play Your Shot

Play the shot. Notice that the golfer has dropped the rake directly behind the area where he has taken his stance. You should drop the rake at a convenient spot, within reaching distance. Otherwise, in retrieving the rake, you'll just add more area of sand that needs to be tended.

Smooth Over the Sand as You

Back Out of the Bunker

Begin raking over the signs of play from the sand - the area where your club made contact with the sand, and your footprints. Pull the tines of the rake toward you as you begin moving back to the rim of the bunker. But be careful not to pull too much sand toward you. The idea is to restore an even surface to the sand without displacing too much sand. If you are pulling too much sand toward you, try pushing the tines outward a few times, too. All the while, you should be progressing back to the edge of the bunker.

Exit the Bunker and

Complete Raking

To complete the raking, step out of the bunker and make your final few passes over the sand with the rake. Unless otherwise instructed at the golf course (check the scorecard and any bulletin boards inside the clubhouse), replace the rake outside the bunker parallel to the line of play (for more on this, see our FAQ, "Should rakes be left inside or outside bunkers?").

Admire Your Work

When you are finished, the sand's surface should be evened out, with no signs of divots or footprints, and no excess sand having been pulled toward the bunker's edge. There will be little furrows left from the tines of the rake. The important thing is that the sand be in as good or better condition than that which you found it in. Make sure golfers following behind you have a good quality bunker from which to play any necessary sand shots.

How to Repair Divots

About.com Golf

Most good swings on well-struck iron shots produce a divot in the fairway. The word "divot" actually refers to two different things: the top layer of turf that is sliced off and sent flying as your iron enters the ground; and the resulting scar, or patch of bare earth, that is left in the fairway. If you look closely, in the photo above, just to the left and forward of the golfer you can see part of the divot flying away.
Repairing divots is an important duty of golfers who create them. According to the Golf Course Superintendents Association of America, a repaired divot can speed up the healing process (meaning: the grass will cover over the scar in the fairway) by a couple weeks, as opposed to an unrepaired divot.

Identify Your Divot

About.com Golf

Yep, that's a divot all right. The golfer's iron has sliced off the top layer of turfgrass, exposing the sod underneath. (This happens because irons are designed to strike the ball on a descending path, meaning that they continue downward and into the ground after making contact with the ball. See the article "Hit Down, Dammit!" for more explanation of this concept.)

Choose the Appropriate 

Method

Now that you've taken a divot, what's your correct course of action? There are two ways of repairing, or "fixing," divots. One is to fill the divot with sand or a sand-and-seed mixture; the other is to retrieve the turfgrass/sod patch that was sliced off and put it back in place. How do you know which is the proper course of action where you are playing? Check the golf cart. If the course wants you to use sand, they'll provide it for you. The sand (or a mixture of sand and seed) will be in a carafe that sits in a what looks like a large cupholder. The cupholder is usually attached to the frame that holds up the roof of the cart.
If you see this container of sand on the cart, the golf course is telling you to use sand. If you don't see it, then you'll put the turf back in place (which we'll see a couple pages forward). On the cart above, we see that sand is provided, so ...

When Using Sand or Sand/Seed

Mix, Pour Into Divot

About.com Golf

Take the container of sand and simply pour the sand, or sand/seed mix, into the divot. Pour enough to fill the divot.

Smooth Over Sand to

Level Out Divot

About.com Golf

One you've filled the divot, use your foot to smooth over and tamp down the sand. And you're done! Such a simple thing to do, yet it helps the golf course heal. But what if no sand is provided on the golf cart? In that case, you'll do something a little different ...

No Sand or Sand/Seed Mix

Means Replacing the Displaced Turf

About.com Golf

When no sand is provided, find the turf that was sliced off from the fairway. If you've taken a "clean divot," you'll find the turf still in one, neat piece. But sometimes, the turf will be in bits in pieces. Just retrieve it as best you can, and replace it in the ground. If your divot is in one piece, then fit it back into the ground the same way it came out (as you would a puzzle piece). If it's in multiple pieces, just do the best job you can to make it fit neatly back into place.

Tamp Down Replaced Turf

To Complete Repair

About.com Golf

When the turf is back in the ground, tamp down with your foot, and you're done. Repairing divots is not always a necessity; with certain types of turfgrasses, at certain times of the year, repairing the divot won't make any difference, good or bad, to the health of the golf course. But unless you are certain that's the case where you play, and when you're playing, you should always repair your divots on the golf course.

Why It's Important to Repair Your Ball Marks on the Green

During a tournament on the Champions Tour, Mark Johnson (center), Morris Hatalsky (left) and Ben Crenshaw take time to repair their ball marks. If they can do it, so can you.

Dave Martin / Getty Images

Ball marks - also called pitch marks - are the bane of smooth-putting and healthy greens on golf courses all over the world. They're the little depressions, or craters, sometimes made when a golf ball descends from the sky and impacts the putting surface. Repairing those little depressions is very important. Equally important is doing it the right way. Because while many golfers fail to repair ball marks - and shame on you if you are one of them - there are also many well-meaning golfers who do "repair" the pitch marks, only to do so incorrectly.
A ball mark can cause the grass in the depression to die, leaving not just a scar but also a pit in the putting surface that can knock well-struck putts offline. Repairing a ball mark restores a smooth surface and helps keep the grass healthy. But "repairing" a ball mark incorrectly can actually cause more damage than not attempting to repair it at all, according to a study done at Kansas State University.
The KSU researchers, whose conclusions were reported on Cybergolf.com, found that incorrectly "repaired" ball marks take up to twice as long to heal as those that are properly repaired.
So golfers, lets all start fixing our ball marks, and doing it the right way. And if you have a moment - if there isn't another group of golfers behind you waiting for you to clear the green - fix one or two other ball marks, too, if you find more of them on the green.
Repairing ball marks isn't just important for the health of the greens, and for smooth-rolling putts. It isn't just a matter of golf etiquette. It is our obligation to help take care of the golf courses we play. And repairing ball marks is a big part of that obligation to the game.
On the next few pages are illustrations courtesy of the Golf Course Superintendents Association of America, and text explaining the right way to fix ball marks.

How to Repair Ball Marks

Ball Mark Repair Tool

Courtesy Golf Course Superintendents Association of America

The ball mark repair tool is the right tool for the job of repairing ball marks. The tool should be familiar to every golfer; it's a simple tool, just two prongs on the end of a piece of metal or hard plastic. There are some newfangled ball mark repair tools on the market, but the jury is still out on whether any of them really do a better job at helping greens heal than the standard, old-fashioned tool pictured above.
By the way, you'll sometimes see this tool referred to as a "divot repair tool." It's not used for repairing divots, of course, so that name is inappropriate. But if you do see that term, this is almost certainly the tool to which it is referring.
The ball mark repair tool is an essential piece of equipment that every golfer should have in his or her golf bag.

Insert the Ball Mark Repair Tool

Courtesy Golf Course Superintendents Association of America

The first step in repairing ball marks is to take your ball mark repair tool and insert the prongs into the turf at the edge of the depression. Note: Do NOT insert the prongs into the depression itself, but at the rim of the depression.

Push Edges of the Ball Mark Toward the Center

Courtesy Golf Course Superintendents Association of America

The next step is to push the edge of the ball mark toward the center, using your ball mark repair tool in a "gentle twisting motion," in the words of the GCSAA. This is the step where golfers who incorrectly "repair" ball marks usually mess up. Many golfers believe the way to "fix" a ball mark is to insert the tool at an angle, so the prongs are beneath the center of the crater, and then to use the tool as a lever to push the bottom of the ball mark back up even with the surface. Do not do this! Pushing the bottom of the depression upward only tears the roots, and kills the grass.
So remember:
Wrong: Using the prongs as levers to push up the bottom of the depression.
Right: Using the prongs to push grass at the edge of the depression toward the center.
Just use your ball mark repair tool to work around the rim of the crater, so to speak, pushing the grass at the edge toward the center of the depression. One way to envision this is to picture reaching down with your thumb and forefinger on opposite sides of the ball mark and "pinching" those sides together.

Smooth Over and Admire Your Work

Courtesy Golf Course Superintendents Association of America

Once you've worked around the rim of the ball mark with your repair tool, pushing the grass toward the center, there's only one thing left to do: Gently tamp down the repaired ball mark with your putter or foot to smooth the putting surface. Then admire your work and pat yourself on the back for helping to take care of the golf course.

Arnold Palmer "10 Rules for Good Golf Etiquette"

Related Links

• Swing sequence: Arnold Palmer
• Video: The Masters & Arnie's Army
• 50th anniversary of Arnie's first Masters win

By Arnold Palmer

With Guy Yocom

Photo By Anton Want/Getty Images

August 2008

I. Don't be the slowest player
In my casual games at Bay Hill, we get around in under four hours -- and that's in fivesomes. Evaluate your pace of play honestly and often, and if you're consistently the slowest one in your group, you're a slow player, period. Encourage everyone to move quickly enough so you find yourself right behind the group in front several times, both early and late in the round.
Remember the old staples of getting around in good time: Play "ready golf" (hit when ready, even if you aren't away) until you reach the green, be prepared to play when it's your turn on the tee and green, and never search for a lost ball for more than five minutes.
II. Keep your temper under control
In the final of the Western Pennsylvania Junior when I was 17, I let my putter fly over the gallery after missing a short putt. I won the match, but when I got in the car with my parents for the ride home, there were no congratulations, just dead silence. Eventually my father said, "If I ever see you throw a club again, you will never play in another golf tournament." That wake-up call stayed with me. I haven't thrown a club since.
Throwing clubs, sulking and barking profanity make everyone uneasy. We all have our moments of frustration, but the trick is to vent in an inoffensive way. For example, I often follow a bad hole by hitting the next tee shot a little harder -- for better or worse.
III. Respect other people's time
Because time is our most valuable commodity, there are few good reasons for breaking a golf date. Deciding last-minute to clean the garage on Saturday, or getting a call that the auto-repair shop can move up your appointment by a day, just doesn't cut it.
Always make your tee times, and show up for your lesson with the pro a little early. Social functions are no exception.
IV. Repair the ground you play on
I have a penknife that's my pet tool for fixing ball marks, but a tee or one of those two-pronged devices is fine. As for divots, replace them or use the seed mix packed on the side of your cart.
Rake bunkers like you mean it. Ever notice that the worse the bunker shot, the poorer the job a guy does raking the sand? Make the area nice and smooth -- don't leave deep furrows from the rake. Before you exit the bunker, ask yourself, Would I be upset if I had to play from that spot?
V. Be a silent partner
During one of my last tour events as a player, I noticed another pro making practice swings in my field of vision as I was getting ready to hit a shot. I stopped, walked over and reminded him (maybe too sternly) that it was my turn to play. The point is, stand still from the time a player sets himself until the ball has left the club.
Even with the advent of spikeless shoes, the etiquette rule of never walking in someone's line of play on the putting green is an absolute. The area around the hole in particular is sacred ground. The first thing to note when you walk onto a green is the location of every ball in your group, then steer clear of their lines to the hole.
Know where to stand and when to keep quiet. Position yourself directly across or at a diagonal from a player setting up. Never stand on the line of play, either beyond the hole or directly behind the ball. When a player is about to hit a shot, think of the fairway as a cathedral, the green a library.
VI. Make your golf cart 'invisible'

Carts are very much a part of the modern game. Think about it: They're mentioned on the backs of scorecards, discussed in the Decisions on the Rules of Golf, bags and other items are designed specifically for them, and they're used at most courses. The sheer pervasiveness of them makes cart etiquette vitally important.
Your goal when driving a cart should be to leave no trace you were there. Because we tend to look where we're going and not where we've been, it's easy to damage the turf and not realize it. Avoid wet areas and spots that are getting beaten up from traffic. Golfers tend to play "follow the leader" and drive in single file out to the fairway before branching off. It's usually better to "scatter" -- everyone take a different route -- so cart traffic is spread out.
VII. Always look your best
From Bobby Jones and Walter Hagen to Ben Hogan and Sam Snead to Tiger Woods and Phil Mickelson, the best players have been meticulous about their appearance. Their clothing has been sharp, and not one of them has shown up on the first tee with his cap backward, mud caked on his shoes, or his shirttail hanging out. (My shirt often came untucked, but it was my swing that did it. I started with it tucked in!)
Your appearance speaks volumes about you as a person, and the neatly appointed golfer, like a businessman or someone headed to church, gives the impression he thinks the golf course and the people there are special.
VIII. Turn off the cell phone
Nobody knows less about technology than I do. But I know enough to recognize a cell phone when it rings in my backswing. If I had my way, cell phones would be turned off at all times on the course, but most clubs have given in to the fact that people are going to use them. I don't know all the gadgets and settings on those phones, but do whatever you have to do to keep it quiet. And if you absolutely have to make a call, move away from the other players. And keep the call so brief that they don't even know you made it.
IX. Lend a hand when you can
It's easy to help out your fellow players, if you just pay attention. One obvious way is looking for lost balls -- better yet, watching errant shots so they don't turn into lost balls. Pick up that extra club left on the fringe or the headcover dropped next to the tee, and return it to its owner after saying, "Nice shot!" And if you see a cart out of position or a provisional ball that needs picking up, don't just walk by.
X. Learn the little things
There are a hundred bits of etiquette I haven't mentioned, like laying the flagstick down carefully, tamping down spike marks when you're walking off a green, letting faster groups play through, and so on. All of these things are learned by observing, with a sharp eye and a considerate heart. Just know that golf has a way of returning favors, and every piece of etiquette you practice will be repaid tenfold.

USGA Drought of 2011 Continues

This bermudagrass turf will recover once the rains return - assuming it is not worn out by excessive traffic in the interim.   There is no better time to document the failings in an irrigation system than with aerial photos taken during a drought. If you are wondering how to get inexpensive aerial photos like this one, check out othis brief video -  Kite Aerial Photography  by Jim Moore, USGA

Much of the country suffered severe drought this year, and in some areas the dry, hot conditions continue to cause major damage to golf courses. With home lawns and parks also burning up, most golfers recognize that superintendents can only do so much to minimize the damage to their course. However, many are not aware that the damage suffered this year will affect courses for years to come. Facilities in the hardest hit areas have seen severe injury to trees, cracking of cart paths, and widespread damage to irrigation systems, in addition to the large-scale losses of turfgrass. Next year is likely to bring heavy weed pressure and reduced water allotments along with the continued loss of trees.  

As is the case with every challenge, those who are best prepared stand out from the rest. This free webcast covers a wide range of issues and provides real-world suggestions and observations to help you and your facility deal with a summer that many of us can't wait to be over.

   

The link below will take you to a site where you can view and/or download the webcast recording. No recording key is required so leave that field blank. Also, we recommend selecting the Microsoft Live Meeting Replay option since it is more compatible with various computers.

   

Please note that the webcast is approximately one hour in length so allow time for it to begin to play (depends on your connection speed). View or download the webcast recording 

  

Also, select this link to review a collection of USGA Green Section articles relating to drought and irrigation issues.

View the articles. 

  

Trees facing "Massive die-off"

Need sustained watering

Trees all over southeast Texas are under severe stress because of the drought, according to a story at Click2Houston.com:

“You are seeing just the tip of it. If we don’t get sustained precipitation, you are going to see a massive die off in the next two to three years. Something that will indeed exceed the loss of trees in a storm like (Hurricane) Ike,” said Barry Ward, executive director of Trees for Houston.
Ward said Memorial and Hermann parks could end up with 10 to 20 percent of trees gone if the current drought continues.
“If you think in broad terms of Harris County, that means millions of trees, and that will have a profound effect on the way our landscape looks,” said Ward.
Ward said no trees in the area should have brown leaves at this time of the year, and when the leaves die off this early in the summer, it will be a long, hard recovery.
The dry trees also continue to fuel dangerous fire conditions in the area. The drought is affecting all types of trees, including cedar, elm, pine and white oak. Houston’s live oak trees should be in a growing season in June, according to Ward, but instead are dying back.
Ward recommended watering a tree every three to five days with five gallons of water for every inch of diameter of the tree. He said the best way to water a tree and avoid evaporation or run off is to fill up a five-gallon bucket with holes poked in the bottom of it and let the water run out over the roots of the tree.
“It’s not a matter of just taking care of this in a week or two. It is a matter of needing sustained precipitation over the next three to four to five months just to get us back on an even keel. We have been in almost unremitting drought since Ike. So years of low rainfall, plus wind stress from Ike, with the exception of one wet winter, it has almost been nonstop stress on these trees. The drought now really is almost the straw that broke the camels back,” said Ward.