Seniors Member/Member

 Our Senior association are hosting the 1st Member/Member in 2012. Looks as if they may be having around the 52 player area, not bad for just getting started.
 The golf course conditions will be good. We have received rainfall twice so far in the month of June and only eight days into it. The golf course was fertilized just a week ago, so with the rainfall and fertility together that sets up the golf course for good playing conditions. The maintenance staff is preparing the course this week to get conditions set up for Tuesday and Wednesday next week. I promise you, the greens speed will not be like the MGA events however the greens should be rolling nicely.
 Good luck to all of you and play good golf!

Golf Cart Rules and Etiquette

After paying your greens fee and cart fee, but before you clamber into that golf cart and speed off to the first tee, make sure you know what the course's cart rules are. Are you allowed to drive the cart onto the fairway? Or does the course have restrictions in place? Sometimes, the golf cart rules change day-to-day at the same course, depending on conditions.
We'll go over the variations of golf cart rules you might see posted at your local golf courses, but first, here are a couple reminders of things you should never do in a golf cart:

• Never drive the cart within hazard boundary lines, or within about 10 yards of water hazards or bunkers, or within about 50 yards of greens (unless you're on a designated cart path, of course). These areas are especially susceptible to damage by the wheels of golf carts. Never drive onto or close to tee boxes, either, unless on the cart path.
• Never drive the cart through mud, on or off the fairway.
• Never drive through casual water on any part of the golf course (unless it's a little bit of water over a paved cart path). The wheels of the cart can do serious damage to the turf, including leaving ruts, in wet areas.
• Never go joyriding in the golf cart. In other words, don't act stupid! People do get injured in cart accidents. See golf cart safety for specific suggestions.

Now, as mentioned above, golf courses may post notices about specific golf cart rules depending on conditions at the course that day. These notices may be posted in the clubhouse; sometimes courses uses small signs they stick in the ground alongside the cart path on the route to the first tee. You should always ask when you check in what the course's standard golf cart rules are, then also be alert for any signage. What might the signage specify?
Cart Path Only
A "cart-path-only rule" is exactly what it sounds like: Keep your cart on the designated cart path at all times. Don't drive onto the grass.
Over time, golf carts speed up soil compaction, which can lead to less-than-ideal growing conditions for turfgrasses. And that can lead to less-than-ideal fairways for golfers. So even when "cart path only" is not in effect, it's a good idea to keep the cart on the designated path.
But when the rule is in effect, it's a requirement.
When "cart path only" is in effect, drive the cart on the designated path until you are parallel to where your golf ball rests on the course. Stop the cart, get out, pull a couple clubs (so you'll have some options when you reach your ball), and walk out to the ball.
90-Degree Rule In Effect
The "90-degree rule" means that the golf course is allowing carts onto the grass - but only at 90-degree angles from the cart path. In other words, don't drive the golf cart up the middle of the fairway from the tee box to your golf ball. Stay on the cart path until you are level with your golf ball, then make a 90-degreen turn off the cart path and drive straight across to the ball.
The "90-degree rule" minimizes the time a golf cart spends rolling over the grass, while still allowing convenience for golfers.
Cart Path Only on Holes X and X
A course may post signs that designate certain holes off-limits to carts, for example, "Cart path only on No. 4 and No. 16 today." In this situation, the course's regular golf cart rules apply (remember, ask when checking in), but on the specified holes you are required to keep the cart on the designed cart path. The reason is usually moisture on the specified holes - they may be too wet for carts - or ground under repair on the specified holes.
No Carts Beyond This Point
This sign is one you might see in a fairway as you close in on the green. Courses don't want golf carts near the putting green; the "no carts beyond this point" sign makes sure golfers get that message. Even if you are allowed to drive the cart on the fairway, be sure to observe these signs. When you see one, stop and return to the designated cart path before proceeding forward again.
This sign may also come in the form of an arrow pointing toward the cart path. The meaning is the same: Don't take the cart beyond this point on the fairway; go back to the cart path.
So, those are the signs golfers are most likely to see on a golf course regarding cart usage. Observe the signs - and don't forget to ask about golf cart rules when you check in.
A few more bits of golf cart etiquette:

• Always stay on designated cart paths on par-3 holes. Even if the course allows carts onto the fairways on par-4s and par-5s, stay off the grass on par-3s.
• Observe common-sense driving rules, just as you do in your car on the road. Be especially careful at any cart-path intersections and in areas where bottlenecks occur (see golf cart safety for specific safety suggestions).
• If you need to drive the cart quickly around the course (maybe you left a club behind a few holes back, maybe you badly need to find a restroom, etc.), be aware of golfers you are passing by. If a golfer is about to swing or attempt a putt, slow down as you approach and stop the cart until the golfer has completed his or her stroke. Carts are noisy. Be courteous. You wouldn't want someone else making noise during your backswing, don't do it to others with your cart.
• Along the same lines, many golf carts beep when they are in reverse. So if you need to put the cart in reverse, be aware of any golfers close to you and whether they are about to begin a stroke.
• When you finish a hole, walk off the green, get into the cart and move on to the next teeing ground before marking the scorecard. In this way, you won't hold up any group behind you that is waiting for the green to clear.

Greens Aerification April 23rd

 The greens were aerified on Monday April 23rd, and man did the need it. The last core removal aerification happened last year in June. The year two scheduled aerifications were cancelled due to the excessive heat and lack of rainfall. This was a huge setback in managing the organic layer and thatch build up. If one of the two or both was to get out of control, it would take nearly a full growing season to get the excessive amounts of thatch and organic build up removed from the profile.
 The ultradwarf bermudas require a great deal more of maintenance compared to the TifDwarf greens that was here for the first 16 years. One of my rules are "30 % of material from the profile must be removed on a yearly basis".
 Take our aerifications we do, by using a 3/8" side eject tine; We aerifiy on 1.5" centers that will remove
11% of the product--multiply that by three aerifications and you have 33% of product removed in a years time, awesome. . .
 Now comes the sand. I cannot stress the importance of the amount of sand needed, this is huge in coming weeks and months. When we top dress the greens during aerifications we want enough sand to fill every hole plus leave a nice layer on the green. As each day goes by after we have aerified the sand on top will move into any areas where the sand may have settled or sunk into a hole. By keeping a layer of sand on top the putting quality will improve in consistently true putt as far as speed and breakage. This area is HUGE, sand sand, and sand. I can't express it enough!!!!!!
 I would expect the recovery time to be a little slower than normal this spring. The morning temperature fell to 49 degrees the next day and continued in the 50 degree area for three straight days. Once morning temps are staying in the 70's grass will begin to grow a whole lot better.


Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Greens Condition update April 12, 2012

 This spring has been brutal as far as disease pressure. The folks from Bayer Science stated to me "If there are 10 turfgrass related diseases in 2012 anyone was susceptible to all ten turfgrass diseases". That is nearly an unheard of event in the turfgrass management programs.
 Many of our greens were affected by one disease or another, so several types of treatment had to be applied to knock off the disease and then a follow up had to be made to hopefully conquer it!
 I wanted to share the examples of diseases that were present on one green and not another and vis versa. Take #1, PG, green--Leaf Spot Disease--tissue related.
Take #3,4,5 Pythium Disease + Leaf Spot Disease--root rot related + tissue related.
Take #2,14 Pythium--root rot related.

Here was our weather conditions for January:
Average Low: 61 degrees
Average Hi: 68 degrees
Rainfall: 8.72"
Note: 20 days out of 31 were cloudy days-No Sunshine

Here was our weather conditions for February:
Average Low: 52 degrees
Average Hi: 67 degrees
Rainfall: 7.64"
Note: 21 days out of 29 were cloudy days-No Sunshine

The examples listed above shows average temperatures well above normal, rainfall well above normal, and extensive amounts of cloudy day; so here's the set up for disease.

**1st week of January-6" of rainfall occurred temperatures went up into the 80's and no sunshine to speak of for 7 to 10 days now. Huge outbreak of Blight/leaf Spot Disease in the Houston area.
**1st of February 5" of rainfall occurred and 12 days now without sunshine and temperatures soared up to the 80's and then dropped to the 40's. The outbreak of leaf Spot/Blight Disease re-occurred and moved into The Melting out Disease. Plus now Pythium disease in the crown of the plant has broke out as well. Two diseases going on at one time, not something we deal with everyday folks.

 Extensive fungicide applications were applied and weekly fertilizer applications are being applied to the necessary areas for recovery. I'm happy to tell you the greens are recovering well and as soon as we get morning temperatures into the mid 7o" consistently day in and day out---look out the greens are going to explode in growth and then I'll be trying to slow down the growth in order to putting speeds up.
 Thanks to all of you for your understanding and patience with a couple of the green.

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Ant Mound Treatment

Our staff has began to spot treat ants on the property. A bait is being applied for the workers to take to the Queen to terminate her life and then the ant bed dies out as well.

An Red Imported Fire Ant (Solenopsis invicta)


What is it?

The red imported fire ant (RIFA) is a small reddish brown ant from South America . There are six known species of fire ants (Solenopsis spp.) in the United States, three of which are found in Arizona. These three species are the southern fire ant (S. xyloni), and two species of desert fire ant (S. aurea and S. amblychila). RIFA has not established in Arizona, but is present in the bordering states of New Mexico and California. It was discovered near Yuma, Arizona but was exterminated.


Red Imported Fire Ant (Solenopsis invicta)


What is it?

The red imported fire ant (RIFA) is a small reddish brown ant from South America . There are six known species of fire ants (Solenopsis spp.) in the United States, three of which are found in Arizona. These three species are the southern fire ant (S. xyloni), and two species of desert fire ant (S. aurea and S. amblychila). RIFA has not established in Arizona, but is present in the bordering states of New Mexico and California. It was discovered near Yuma, Arizona but was exterminated.

Adult red imported fire ants.

  RIFA are small but highly aggressive. They inject a necrotising, alkaloid venom when they sting. The stings result in painful, itchy, and persistent pustules, and sometimes in severe allergic reactions. Five million people are stung each year in the southeastern United States. About 25,000 of these people require medical consultation. When a fire ant mound is disturbed, workers boil to the surface, run up any legs, arms, etc. in the vicinity, grab the victim's skin in their mandibles and sting synchronously in response to the slightest movement. The attacks are coordinated and dozens or even hundreds of workers sting in unison.
  Fire ants live in colonies that may have 100,000 to 500,000 ants. The queen of the colony can lay from 1500 to 5000 eggs per day, never leaves the nest and can live for many years. Worker ants take care of the queen and her eggs, build the nest, defend the colony, and find food. Preferred food of fire ants consists of protein-rich sources such as insects and seeds. Winged male and female ants fly from the colony in the spring and summer to mate in the air. The males die and the females become queens that start new colonies.
  Only the red imported fire ant has a median clypeal tooth and a striated mesepimeron; these may be difficult to see at first. RIFA also have an antennal scape that nearly reaches the vertex, a post-petiole that is constricted at the back half, and the petiolar process is small or absent. Of the native fire ant species, the southern fire ant (Solenopsis xyloni) looks the most like the red imported fire ant. It can be identified by its brown to black color, well-developed petiolar process, and no median clypeal tooth. Desert fire ants (Solenopsis aurea and S. amblychila) are both yellowish-red to reddish-yellow and have a well-developed petiolar process. RIFA can also be identified by the proportion of large to small workers in disturbed mounds. If half the workers in disturbed mounds are large and dark, it is RIFA. If only a few large ants appear relative to hundreds of small ants, it is non-RIFA.

Characteristic Description

*  # of node segments 2
*  # of sizes of workers Many (polymorphic)
*  Size of workers 3 – 7 mm

Shape of thorax Uneven
*  # of antennal segments
*  10 with two-segment club at tip
*  # pairs of spines in thorax
*  None

Color
*  Reddish brown, abdomen darker

Stinger
*  Present, inflicts pain, leaves white pustule (pustule is not an allergic reaction)

Mound
*  Material Formed from excavated soil

Size
*  Wider than a dinner plate at its base
*  Shape Amorphous, often oval shaped like a mountain cone
*  Visibility Above ground, 4” to 24” tall
*  Entrance None visible, ants access mound through subterranean tunnels that spoke out from the central mound
*  Texture Has a fresh-tilled appearance, especially after a rain

Why is it a Threat?

  RIFA colonies are extremely destructive. They dominate their home ranges due to their large numbers and aggressiveness. The lack of natural enemies results in population booms in areas they invade.
  RIFA alter the composition of the ecological communities in the areas they invade. They outcompete and frequently eliminate native fire ants. They also compete with other animals for food and alter abundance of prey species. RIFA attack eggs and young of many bird and reptile species. In areas of high infestation, RIFA have significantly reduced northern bobwhite quail populations (Allen et al. 1995) and may completely eliminate ground-nesting species from a given area (Vinson and Sorenson 1986). They also attack small mammals such as rodents and have been known to attack and sometimes kill newborn deer and cattle. Due to a 10-20 year lapse before bird population reductions are observed, it is suggested that actual effects of RIFA on animal populations may be underestimated (Mount 1981). Natural plant ecosystems could potentially be impacted as well. RIFA predates upon solitary bees that are pollinators of certain plants (Vinson 1997) and move and feed on large quantities of seeds.
  Stings from RIFA create health problems for many humans. Fire ants sting repeatedly and venom is injected from the poison sac with each sting. RIFA venom has a high concentration of toxins that cause an intense burning and itching that lasts for an hour and is followed by a blister that becomes a white pustule. Broken or scratched pustules can result in secondary bacterial infections and permanent scars. In some individuals, severe allergic reactions can occur resulting in anaphylactic shock and even death (Dowell et al. 1997).
  RIFA cost the US billions of dollars a year in damage to agricultural crops and equipment, livestock, wildlife, public health, and electrical equipment such as air conditioners, traffic signal boxes, electrical and utility units, telephone junctions, airport landing lights, electric pumps for oil and water wells, computers, and even car electrical systems. Control methods for RIFA are extremely costly.


Distribution

RIFA are native to South America and were brought to the US sometime around the 1930's. They now occupy more than 275 million acres of land in the US and are found in Florida, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas, South Carolina, North Carolina, Texas, Louisiana, Tennessee, New Mexico , Oklahoma, and California. They invade via transported nursery stock, honeybee colonies, and on empty trailers and trucks. Cold temperatures may limit the northward spread of RIFA in the US and the westward spread may be limited by drier conditions. Natural dispersal occurs on flowing water. Areas with seasonal flooding are vulnerable to RIFA invasion.

Habitat

In infested areas, colonies are common in lawns, gardens, school yards, parks, roadsides, and golf courses. Nests generally occur in sunny, open areas and are most common in disturbed and irrigated soil. RIFA mounds are 4 to 24 inches tall and have no visible surface entrance. Mounds are accessed through subterranean tunnels that spoke out from the central mound. Non-RIFA mounds rarely exceed an inch or 2 in height. RIFA mounds have a fresh-tilled appearance, especially after a rain.

History

  RIFA are believed to have arrived in the southern United States around the 1930's on ships from South America as ballast waters were dumped or goods were unloaded. Their range expanded rapidly and today they occupy 13 US states and Puerto Rico .

What can be Done

  RIFA is a regulated species in Arizona. To keep RIFA out of Arizona, the Arizona Department of Agriculture has been conducting surveys at high-risk sites such as nurseries, parks, truck stops, etc. In 2004, all samples collected were negative for RIFA. The drier climate in Arizona is a limitation for this species, however, as we irrigate more lawns, agricultural fields, and golf courses, we increase our chances of a successful RIFA invasion. Once RIFA has established in an area, the chances of eradicating it are slim and control becomes the primary means of fighting its spread. It is vital that we prevent the spread of this species. RIFA very easily travel in potted plants and soil and in our vehicles. If RIFA is detected, citizens should contact the Arizona Department of Agriculture for confirmation and eradication. Eradication methods are complex due to the life cycle of the species and should be conducted by trained individuals.

Greens Aerification Schedule

For those of you who caught on to Willy aerifying the greens in front of the MGA Championship Tournament, here's what was up.

 The type of aerification that was completed is simply to break the barrier between the existing sand of twenty two years now and the new sand existing five years now. Where the two sands meet up they have formed a black layer. In turn, this blocks all water and air movement between the drainage lines and the turf.
 What I discovered was the water, whether it came from rain or irrigation was sitting on top of the black layer at three to six inches below the turf. In the warm season months the evaporation is likely enough to keep any water from standing in this area. During the cool season months, the water can only sit and wait for something to happen to dry out and/or drain out. By aerifying at ten inches deep we are able to break the black layering and allow water and air to begin flow from the surface through the seed bed mix and exiting into the drainage. The damage by aerifying with a solid tine is minimal, a heavy duty roller is used to keep the putting surface level and on top of that our staff comes along and rolls the greens several more times. So compare the greens to one week before, I would have to say good call Plowman. I hope you all fell the same, the greens have changed dramatically in one week already. On top of that, the next available date for this type of aerification would have been in July sometime, so do it now or what, we needed to take action now! Thanks for your understanding!

There will be three core removal aerification planned for 2012.

April 23rd-Monday after Member/Member
June 25th-Originally schedule June 18th
August 20th

 One last note, throughout the summer months you will small holes quite often on the putting surface. In 2012 I plan to aerify with a 1/4" solid tine in between each one of our core aerifications. This has no effect on putting the ball to the hole, but at least you can blame me for your miss shot.

 On behalf of the entire golf course maintenance staff we want to say;

"THANK YOU FOR BEING A MEMBER OF WILLOW FORK COUNTRY CLUB"

Bunker sand update

  As of March 13th, all of the greenside bunkers have had sand added to them. We know plan to move to the fairway bunkers and install 1" to 2" of sand in them. On fairway bunkers, less sand is common so that long shots can be hit out the bunkers.
  We certainly hope adding the sand has improved the bunkers, keep in mind as time goes by the maintenance staff will continue to roll the sod around the bunkers. This will help in controlling the erosion that is currently taking place on most of our bunkers. You can check out some of our work by visiting the #9,10,11,12,18 greenside bunkers.

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent