An appeal for the return of golf course etiquette

 Practicing good etiquette on the course seems to be slipping across the board, regardless of handicap and the timing could not be worse. All but wealthiest courses are finding it harder to make profit these days, with large cost increases in fuel, fertilizers, chemicals, and labor. Since labor almost always represents the largest budget item, it typically is the first to be targeted when budget reductions are neccessary.
 When forced to choose, most courses with reduced available labor place a higher priority on agronomic necessities than the niceties of completing tasks that good golfers normally do for themselves. Unless we can somehow encourage players to become better golfers, the overall quality of many courses will decline rapidily during tough economic times.

Consider the following definitions of good players and good golfers:

GOOD PLAYERS; have low handicaps, usually hit the ball a mile, and occasionally post low scores.

GOOD GOLFERS; fill divots, repair ball marks, and practice good golf etiquette each and every time they are on the course.

Filling Divits
 Golfers often ask if they should replace their divots, fill them with whatever has been provided in the divot buckets, or just leave them for the crew?
 The best option is to fill the divot with the material provoded by the maintenance staff. Replacing a divot is the second best option, assuming the divot is deep enough to include a significant amount of soil. Without the soil, the divot quickly dries out and is pulled back out of the ground during the next mowing.
Do-Fill divots with the material provoded.
Don't-overfill the hole, which results in a sand mound that can dull or damage the mowing units.

BALL MARKS
 Few aspects of etiquette generate more discusiion thatn the fixing of ball marks, and even superintendents disagree on the best method on ball mark repair. The inability to agree on a single best method stems from the fact that ball marks are not all the same.
On soft greens, a shot that descends from a very steep angle produces a deep almost circular ball mark. On the same green, a shot that comes in low and hard will produce an elongated tearing of the green and it often removes a plug of grass and soil.
 Compacted soils needs to be lifted gently and the sides raised of the ball mark need to be gently pushed back towards the center. The elongated marks need to be kneaded back together by pushing in from the sides, stretching the turf rather than tearing it. replacing removed turf seldom accomplishes much, so it's best to leave it out.
Do-Restore surface smoothness by gently pushing from sides and in some cases lifting the compressed area.
Don't-Aggressively twist (as is so often done by pro's on national television) which does more harm than good.

BUNKERS
 Among the first rules of etiquitte taught to young players are to rake the bunker smooth of footprints and repair divot after a shot. Unfortunately, either through laziness or disdain, many players refuse to extend this courtesy to their fellow golfers. Shovong sand around with your foot or a clubhead is no sustitute for raking.
 However, for those of us whop are willing to rake, it is important to do the job correctly. Avoid pulling sand down the bunker face when raking. Doing so results in very shallow sand on the face, leading to exposed soil, which is easily eroded.
 It is equally important to avoid pulling sand out of the bunker and onto adjacent turf. Piles of sand around the bunker edges can cause seroius damage to mowing equipment. Sand rakes out of the bunkers will also result in poorly defined bunker edges, whether the ball is in or out of the hazard.
Do-Push sand up the bunker face and exit from the low side of the bunker.
Don't-Climb out of the high side of the bunker, which causes damage to the to liners and grass faces.

CARTS
 Nothing causes more damage to golf courses than the improper use of golf carts. Superintendents expend many labor hours repairing this damage and trying to prevent it in the first place. The problems are many and most could be easily prevented with common sense.
 One of the most common is players driving their carts on the banks or slopes of tees and greens along with parking the cart just off the cart path where one tire is on the turf and the other tire is on the cart path. Take a look around the next time you play and notice all the wear and tear along the cart paths at the tee's and green's. Driving too close to the green is particularly troublesome, since the wear and tear on the turf in this area directly affects playing qaulity. Sure ropes, signs, and painted lines could be there to direct the golfer however they are frequently ignored by players who are too lazy to walk from the cart path to the tee and/or green.
 Unthinking cart drivers frequently pull two wheels off the path presumably to make room for other carts to pass. Since they invariably do this next to greens and tees, it is no coincidence that ruts are accomplished in these areas immediately adjacent to the cart path. Although this is a great practice if you have a flat on the highway, it is uneccessary on the golf course. Seldom a marshall, drink cart, or maintemance vehicle needs to get by--they can easily pull off the cart on the opposite side of the tee and/or green and go around the parked cart--which has all four tires on the cart path.
Do-Avoid wet areas, stay off green and tee slopes, park all four tires on the cart path, and follow all directional signs.
Don't-Pull halfway off the path, as it unneccessary and causes damage to highly visble areas.

REMEMBER SMALL THINGS MAKE A BIG DIFFERE

*  Picking up broken tees helps prevent costly damage to mower repairs

*  Not overfilling trash containers prevents trash from blowing across the course.

*  Replacing a sign or rope/stake that has been knocked down keeps the course looking neat and helps

prevent damage.
* If an irrigation system leak is spotted, let a maintenance staff worker know about it or contact the golf shop.
* Lose the HERD mentality when driving your cart--avoid following the same path off of the cart path as thaose before you.
* Avoid taking divots on your practice swing!
* Chip to the chipping green -- not the practice green!
* When practicing putting, avoid standing on one place for extended periods of time--doing so can cause damage to the green.
* Put bunker rakes back along the edges of the sand trap and repair your damage to the bunker.

USGA Is It Really Spring?

By Bud White, USGA Director, Mid-Continent Region

April 27, 2013

 This spring has been a particularly difficult time for golf courses with warm season fairways and roughs in the Mid-Continent region. Even as far south as San Antonio, we have continued to experience cold nights which have more than negated the few warm days we have had this spring. As late as April 25, the low in Dallas was 38 °F. As a result, there has been no active bermudagrass growth to date.
 Turfgrass researchers have found that until the daytime high and nighttime low temperatures add up to 150 bermudagrass cannot begin active regrowth. This active growth includes roots, rhizomes, and stolons, and this will not happen until adequate temperatures are experienced.
 This regrowth response in the spring has historically been a frustrating point for golfers in the South and transition zone because when the bermudagrass greens up, they expect the density and quality to respond equally. These expectations are heightened by the intermittent warm spring days that draw golfers to the course. However, it is critical to help them understand that night temperatures are the most influential on bermudagrass regrowth. The 150 degree rule must be sustained for several days before the response actually begins to occur. For example, even if daytime temperatures reach 80 °F, the nighttime temperatures must be at 70 °F for active bermudagrass growth. When reviewing the temperature ranges we have experienced through late March and all of April, you can clearly see we have not reached this threshold as yet. In north Texas for example, the average temperature in April of 2012 was 78 °F. In contrast, the average temperature in April of 2013 has been 69 °F.
 The slow growth of bermudagrass this spring has been an even greater problem for courses that suffered damage late last year or over the winter. Although bermudagrass has greened up, until temperatures rise and conditions stay warm it will not begin the lateral growth necessary to cover damaged areas. Superintendents and golfers must realize that no amount of water or fertilizer can force this lateral growth to occur. In fact, trying to force growth before temperatures rise can cause more damage later in the year.

 Just to add on to this article today is May 3rd and the morning temperature is 46 degrees with a high of 60; that equals 106 degrees-infact the windchill at 6:00 am was 31 degrees. Saturday May 4th, forecasted low 40 degrees high 70 that equals 110 degrees, not till Thursday May 9th temperatures are forecsted to reach the 150 temperature degree rule.
 So please keep in mind when you play the course and your wondering why the grass is not lush in the fairways or why the roughs are not growing or why the greens are not healing up after the aerification-like they always have, the answer is simple bermudagrass is not receiving the required temperature to actively grow!!!

Thanks
Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent