An appeal for the return of golf course etiquette

 Practicing good etiquette on the course seems to be slipping across the board, regardless of handicap and the timing could not be worse. All but wealthiest courses are finding it harder to make profit these days, with large cost increases in fuel, fertilizers, chemicals, and labor. Since labor almost always represents the largest budget item, it typically is the first to be targeted when budget reductions are neccessary.
 When forced to choose, most courses with reduced available labor place a higher priority on agronomic necessities than the niceties of completing tasks that good golfers normally do for themselves. Unless we can somehow encourage players to become better golfers, the overall quality of many courses will decline rapidily during tough economic times.

Consider the following definitions of good players and good golfers:

GOOD PLAYERS; have low handicaps, usually hit the ball a mile, and occasionally post low scores.

GOOD GOLFERS; fill divots, repair ball marks, and practice good golf etiquette each and every time they are on the course.

Filling Divits
 Golfers often ask if they should replace their divots, fill them with whatever has been provided in the divot buckets, or just leave them for the crew?
 The best option is to fill the divot with the material provoded by the maintenance staff. Replacing a divot is the second best option, assuming the divot is deep enough to include a significant amount of soil. Without the soil, the divot quickly dries out and is pulled back out of the ground during the next mowing.
Do-Fill divots with the material provoded.
Don't-overfill the hole, which results in a sand mound that can dull or damage the mowing units.

BALL MARKS
 Few aspects of etiquette generate more discusiion thatn the fixing of ball marks, and even superintendents disagree on the best method on ball mark repair. The inability to agree on a single best method stems from the fact that ball marks are not all the same.
On soft greens, a shot that descends from a very steep angle produces a deep almost circular ball mark. On the same green, a shot that comes in low and hard will produce an elongated tearing of the green and it often removes a plug of grass and soil.
 Compacted soils needs to be lifted gently and the sides raised of the ball mark need to be gently pushed back towards the center. The elongated marks need to be kneaded back together by pushing in from the sides, stretching the turf rather than tearing it. replacing removed turf seldom accomplishes much, so it's best to leave it out.
Do-Restore surface smoothness by gently pushing from sides and in some cases lifting the compressed area.
Don't-Aggressively twist (as is so often done by pro's on national television) which does more harm than good.

BUNKERS
 Among the first rules of etiquitte taught to young players are to rake the bunker smooth of footprints and repair divot after a shot. Unfortunately, either through laziness or disdain, many players refuse to extend this courtesy to their fellow golfers. Shovong sand around with your foot or a clubhead is no sustitute for raking.
 However, for those of us whop are willing to rake, it is important to do the job correctly. Avoid pulling sand down the bunker face when raking. Doing so results in very shallow sand on the face, leading to exposed soil, which is easily eroded.
 It is equally important to avoid pulling sand out of the bunker and onto adjacent turf. Piles of sand around the bunker edges can cause seroius damage to mowing equipment. Sand rakes out of the bunkers will also result in poorly defined bunker edges, whether the ball is in or out of the hazard.
Do-Push sand up the bunker face and exit from the low side of the bunker.
Don't-Climb out of the high side of the bunker, which causes damage to the to liners and grass faces.

CARTS
 Nothing causes more damage to golf courses than the improper use of golf carts. Superintendents expend many labor hours repairing this damage and trying to prevent it in the first place. The problems are many and most could be easily prevented with common sense.
 One of the most common is players driving their carts on the banks or slopes of tees and greens along with parking the cart just off the cart path where one tire is on the turf and the other tire is on the cart path. Take a look around the next time you play and notice all the wear and tear along the cart paths at the tee's and green's. Driving too close to the green is particularly troublesome, since the wear and tear on the turf in this area directly affects playing qaulity. Sure ropes, signs, and painted lines could be there to direct the golfer however they are frequently ignored by players who are too lazy to walk from the cart path to the tee and/or green.
 Unthinking cart drivers frequently pull two wheels off the path presumably to make room for other carts to pass. Since they invariably do this next to greens and tees, it is no coincidence that ruts are accomplished in these areas immediately adjacent to the cart path. Although this is a great practice if you have a flat on the highway, it is uneccessary on the golf course. Seldom a marshall, drink cart, or maintemance vehicle needs to get by--they can easily pull off the cart on the opposite side of the tee and/or green and go around the parked cart--which has all four tires on the cart path.
Do-Avoid wet areas, stay off green and tee slopes, park all four tires on the cart path, and follow all directional signs.
Don't-Pull halfway off the path, as it unneccessary and causes damage to highly visble areas.

REMEMBER SMALL THINGS MAKE A BIG DIFFERE

*  Picking up broken tees helps prevent costly damage to mower repairs

*  Not overfilling trash containers prevents trash from blowing across the course.

*  Replacing a sign or rope/stake that has been knocked down keeps the course looking neat and helps

prevent damage.
* If an irrigation system leak is spotted, let a maintenance staff worker know about it or contact the golf shop.
* Lose the HERD mentality when driving your cart--avoid following the same path off of the cart path as thaose before you.
* Avoid taking divots on your practice swing!
* Chip to the chipping green -- not the practice green!
* When practicing putting, avoid standing on one place for extended periods of time--doing so can cause damage to the green.
* Put bunker rakes back along the edges of the sand trap and repair your damage to the bunker.

USGA Is It Really Spring?

By Bud White, USGA Director, Mid-Continent Region

April 27, 2013

 This spring has been a particularly difficult time for golf courses with warm season fairways and roughs in the Mid-Continent region. Even as far south as San Antonio, we have continued to experience cold nights which have more than negated the few warm days we have had this spring. As late as April 25, the low in Dallas was 38 °F. As a result, there has been no active bermudagrass growth to date.
 Turfgrass researchers have found that until the daytime high and nighttime low temperatures add up to 150 bermudagrass cannot begin active regrowth. This active growth includes roots, rhizomes, and stolons, and this will not happen until adequate temperatures are experienced.
 This regrowth response in the spring has historically been a frustrating point for golfers in the South and transition zone because when the bermudagrass greens up, they expect the density and quality to respond equally. These expectations are heightened by the intermittent warm spring days that draw golfers to the course. However, it is critical to help them understand that night temperatures are the most influential on bermudagrass regrowth. The 150 degree rule must be sustained for several days before the response actually begins to occur. For example, even if daytime temperatures reach 80 °F, the nighttime temperatures must be at 70 °F for active bermudagrass growth. When reviewing the temperature ranges we have experienced through late March and all of April, you can clearly see we have not reached this threshold as yet. In north Texas for example, the average temperature in April of 2012 was 78 °F. In contrast, the average temperature in April of 2013 has been 69 °F.
 The slow growth of bermudagrass this spring has been an even greater problem for courses that suffered damage late last year or over the winter. Although bermudagrass has greened up, until temperatures rise and conditions stay warm it will not begin the lateral growth necessary to cover damaged areas. Superintendents and golfers must realize that no amount of water or fertilizer can force this lateral growth to occur. In fact, trying to force growth before temperatures rise can cause more damage later in the year.

 Just to add on to this article today is May 3rd and the morning temperature is 46 degrees with a high of 60; that equals 106 degrees-infact the windchill at 6:00 am was 31 degrees. Saturday May 4th, forecasted low 40 degrees high 70 that equals 110 degrees, not till Thursday May 9th temperatures are forecsted to reach the 150 temperature degree rule.
 So please keep in mind when you play the course and your wondering why the grass is not lush in the fairways or why the roughs are not growing or why the greens are not healing up after the aerification-like they always have, the answer is simple bermudagrass is not receiving the required temperature to actively grow!!!

Thanks
Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Rain storm in April

 I need to go out of town more often in order to receive rainfall. This weekend I went to my mom's house in the outback woods of East Texas up on Toledo Bend. So after visiting Louisiana for several hours I got back to my moms house and decided to watch the weather; and holy cow! I was hearing like up to 6" in Katy and up to 9" in Sugar Land.
 Once I did return to Katy I was able to receive the rainfall totals. At the course here we received 3.85", Sweetwater Country Club received 3.75", however just to the east of Sweetwater up to 9.50" of rain fell.
 The rainfall was greatly needed, it filled all of our lakes so Thank you Mother Nature. Keep the good work up.

Greens aerification update

 Monday April 15th we had aerified the greens and all went well. The greens are well on there way to recovery.

4 days later the temperatures plunged, a cold front moved in and we experienced record low daytime and nighttime temperatures. How about a high of 51 degrees on Friday April 19th then Saturday morning April 20th, the low temperature was 36 degrees, we even had some frost on the course. The greens basically shut down growing.

2 days later April 22nd the temperatures had rebounded slightly. Greens began to show signs of rebounding to recovery.

Then 2 days later April 23rd another cold front blew in and Wednesday April 24th the high temperature was 59 degrees. The greens shut down once again.

Everyone please remember the 150 degree rule that I preach. Add the nighttime and daytime temperatures together and we need to equal 150 degrees or higher on consistent basis in order to grow turf. So far since February, we have managed to make just 6 days on the 150 degree rule.

Some good news, the temperatures are forecasted to reach the 145 to 155 degree area after Saturday April 27th and continue to warm up slightly. Of course, remember there is no control of the weather so we are always at its mercy.

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

New Equipment

Willow Fork is in line to receive three pieces of equipment in 2013!

Roller-our unit is riding on 10 years old and is history. We will be receiving the new version of the roller shortly.

Riding greens/tee mowers-our last of four mowers is nearly history, so Century Golf is stepping up and purchasing Willow Fork 2 riding mowers for the greens and tees. This is a great purchased for us and I am looking forward in getting these machines here!!!
We still have one original mower on site and that one will be used in helping to mow the tee tops, collars, and approaches.

Century Golf can make additional Capital Improvements because of members like you. With you being a member of Willow Fork and helping to keep a full club; This helps a bunch in funding these types of improvements. So as I always say

THANK YOU FOR BEING A MEMBER!!!

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Greens aerification

Monday April 15th the greens were aerified with a 3/8" side eject tine on 2" centers. Then sand was used to fill the holes. The sand is dragged into the holes throughout the day until we get a smooth consistent surface. From there we'll bring out the blower and clean up any grass clipping left behind as well as any large amounts of sand left over. We then will water the greens during the later part of the day as well the night hours.
Once these procedures have been completed on the first day, we usually have a fairly good surface recovered and ready for golf to take place. For the next couple of days we will continuously drag the sand around on the green to help in leveling and/or getting the sand even through out the green, this helps big time in the coming future of the green speeds and developing a smooth putting surface. When we finish dragging and blowing the sand we then bring in the roller to help in smoothing the surface for better putting consistency. This is generally repeated until the sand had diminished into the holes and the mower can be brought out and the roller contunues day after day.
I know no one enjoys or looks forward to aerification but bottom line is; If you want to have top quality putting greens you have to do this. I thank all of you for your patience and understanding, the golf course maintenance crew is working in full stride to get the greens back to top quality.

THANK YOU FOR BEING A MEMBER!!!

Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent

Take the 10 gallon water conservation challenge!

 Water plays an important role in our lives...in fact, no living thing can survive without it! We can all learn to use water wisely. If each of us used 10 gallons less each day, think how much water we could save by the end of a week! or a month! or a year! It is amazing how fast the savings will add up.

1. Take shorter showers = 4-5 gallons per minute.

2. Tell an adult about a leaky faucet or "running" toilet = repair will save 2 to 200 gallons per day.

3. Use a broom instead of a water hose to clean the driveway and sidewalks = 9 gallons per minute.

4. Ask an adult to adjust the irrigation system controller to water a maximum of twice a week - can save up to 40% of the water used for this purpose. Turn systems OFF during winter months - October - February.

5. Only run the dishwasher with a full load = 12 gallons per load.

6. Wait for a full load before running the washing machine = up to 43 gallons per load

7. Turn off the faucet while brushing teeth = 4 gallons per minute.

SEE HOW EASY IT WILL BE TO SAVE 10 gallons a day!

Additional tips for the disposal of grease and leftovers from TCEQ...

1. Place grease and used cooking oils in covered collection containers. Let them solidify on the counter or in the refrigerator before placing them in the garbage.
2. Scrape food scraps into trash cans or garbage bags; minimize the use of the disposal. Non-meat and diary food items may be placed in a compost pile.
3. Remove oil or grease from dishes, pans, and griddles by using a rubber spatula or paper towel to absorb it instead of rinsing it down the drain.
4. Do not pour cooking oil and grease down the drain...ever!
5. Overall, be careful what you scrape into the disposal. Once the walls of the pipes begin to clog up, all kinds of discarded scraps can make a bad problem a whole lot worse.
6. Don't run hot water over dishes, pans, fryers or griddles to wash oil and grease down the drain.