Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Army Worms are enjoying the luxury life of Bermudagrass

If you notice large silver looking patches or those same area turning brown, that's the Army Worm munching on our grass. So far I have treated 45 acres and still need to treat more. Here's some pictures in front of #8 tee along the cart path.
 See the article from the Harris County Extension Agency below the pictures.




























































Armyworms in Texas Pastures and Lawns

Armyworm outbreaks are difficult to predict but infestations seem to occur in portions of the state every year especially after rains in the early fall. Common species of armyworms present in Texas include: the fall armyworm, Spodoptera frugiperda; the yellowstriped armyworm, Spodoptera ornithogalli; the beet armyworm, Spodoptera exigua; and the armyworm, Pseudaletia unipuncta . The fall armyworm is usually the species that causes the most problems in pastures, small grains and turfgrass.
BIOLOGY AND HABITS
All armyworms have four life stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult. Eggs are very small, white, laid in clusters of 50 or more and are covered with grayish, fuzzy scales from the body of the female moth. The eggs are seldom seen in grasses and are usually laid at the base of host plants. Lush plant growth is preferred by the adults for egg laying. Larvae (caterpillars) are very small when they emerge from the egg. Larvae will feed for 2-3 weeks and can be 26-37 mm (1-1.5 inches) long with various color patterns depending on the species. The larvae have five instars (stages when molting occurs) and sometimes hide in debris on the soil surface in the middle of the day. When full grown, larvae enter the soil and form the pupal stage. Adult moths emerge from pupae. Moths mate and lay eggs, thus starting the life cycle over again.
Several generations (a generation is the development from egg to adult stage) occur each year and typically take about 28 days to complete. Generation time can be extended if cooler temperatures occur and can last up to several months. Armyworms in the spring and summer occur in more distinct groups than later in the season. Fall populations of larvae often blend together several generations and may appear to be continually occurring. Some detail on the species mentioned follow.
Fall Armyworm - The fall armyworm overwinters in the pupal stage in the southern regions of Texas. The adult is a moth that migrates northward as temperatures increase in the spring. The adult moth has a wingspan of 32-40 mm (about 1.5 in.). The hind wings are silver-white; the front wings are dark gray, mottled with lighter and darker splotches. Each front wing has a noticeable whitish spot near the extreme tip on the males. Larval color can vary from light tan to shades of green. The head is brown or black with a prominent white line between the eyes which forms an inverted “Y.” The fall armyworm has four large spots on the upper surface of the last segment of its body. Along the middle of the larva’s back is a wide, yellowish-gray band with a dark, black stripe just below the yellowish-gray band.
Yellowstriped Armyworm - The yellowstriped armyworm moth has dark forewings with white and brown markings, and white hind wings. The wingspan ranges from 32 to 38 mm. The larva has a brownish head and bright yellow stripes near the top of the sides of the body and a pair of black, triangular spots running the length of the body.
Beet Armyworm - Adult beet armyworm moths have wingspans of 25 to 32 mm, with forewings that are mottled gray or brown with a pale spot near the center of each wing. The hind wings are a uniform gray or white. The larva is usually green but color can vary, with dark lateral bands running the length of the body. The larva has a single, dark spot behind the head and directly above the second pair of true legs (located directly behind the head). Beet armyworms tend to be more of a problem in hot, dry conditions and are usually a significant pest in vegetables and other broadleaf plants (such as cotton).
Armyworm - The adult moths are grayish tan, with small salmon or orange-pink dots on the forewings. The armyworm larva has a dark band running lengthwise along the middle of the back with a pale stripe just below the dark band. Fall armyworm has the reverse coloration. Armyworm caterpillars have a net-like or “honeycomb” pattern in their eyes and a dark band at the top of each proleg (unjointed legs near the back of the body). Armyworm larvae lack the inverted “Y” and four black spots on the last segment which are characteristic of the fall armyworm.
PEST STATUS AND CONTROL
When feeding, larvae strip foliage and then move to the next available food. High populations appear to march side by side to the new food. Thus, the name armyworms is derived.
Armyworms attack many different kinds of plants. When food is scarce, they will move to plants that are not normally attacked. Thus, armyworms can be found on nearly any plant as they migrate in search of edible foliage. Plants attacked by armyworms include: bermudagrass, fescue, grain and forage sorghum, corn, small grains, sweet potato, beans, turnip, clover, spinach, cucumber, potatoes, tomatoes, cotton and cabbage.
Damage consists of defoliation. The small larvae will chew the green layer from the leaves, creating a “window pane” effect. The first three instars cause very little feeding damage while the last two instars consume 85% of the total foliage consumed.
Control-Although armyworm outbreaks are memorable when they occur, in reality, the outbreaks are usually small in scope. Weather and natural enemies usually act together to keep populations under control.
Parasites such as wasps and flies are very effective against armyworms. Predators, such as ground beetles, are also effective in limiting outbreaks. Birds, skunks and rodents also consume large numbers of larvae and pupae. Diseases such as insect viruses and fungi can also be important.
However, conditions can occur that favor armyworms. High egg survival of fall armyworms is favored by above average rains in August and September. Beet armyworm outbreaks are likely in hot, dry conditions or when multiple applications of insecticides reduce natural enemies. Because armyworm moths are strong fliers, outbreaks can also occur when storms move the moths and allow them to escape natural enemies.
Armyworms should be controlled when they occur in large numbers or plant damage is becoming excessive.
The fall armyworm outbreaks usually occur late in the summer and early fall. Preventive treatments normally are not justified because attacks are sporadic and egg mortality is usually high. A variety of natural enemies keep fall armyworm larvae down to moderate numbers. Early detection of larvae is the best management tool and is achieved by frequent, thorough inspection of plants. Outbreaks seem to occur shortly after a rain or supplemental irrigation.
Fall armyworms feed any time of the day or night, but are most active early in the morning or late in the evening. Susceptible fields or lawns should be scouted by counting the number of armyworms in a square foot area in 8 different sites. Divide the total worm count by 8 to find the average number of armyworms per square foot. Be sure to take samples in the interior of the field because this pest is often heaviest near the field margins. Sometimes, only the field margins require treatment.
The threshold level ranges from two to three larvae per square foot for seedling wheat. For older plants, three to four larvae and obvious foliage loss justify control measures. Thresholds in improved pastures and lawns vary with conditions but treatment should be considered when counts average three or more worms per square foot.
Insecticide choices vary with the crop but the following (with product names and grazing restrictions in parentheses) are labeled for use in pastures include carbaryl (Sevin®) (14 days), malathion (0 days), methomyl (Lannate®) (7 days), methyl parathion (Penncap®-M) (15 days) and various biologicals such as Dipel®(0 days). Insecticide labeled in lawns and turf include halofenozide (Mach® 2), bifenthrin (Talstar®), cyfluthrin (Tempo®, Bayer Advanced®), carbaryl (Sevin®) permethrin (multiple brands) and spinosad (Conserve® and others).

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Update on adding new sand to the traps

Here's an update on adding new sand to the sand traps.

Round 1
4 loads of trap sand
#3 greenside traps
#4 fairway trap (aprrox. 60 yards from green)
#4 greenside traps
#5 greenside traps
#6 fairway traps
#6 greenside traps
Chipping green

Round 2
4 loads of sand
#7 greenside traps
#8 greenside traps
#9 greenside traps
#18 greenside traps

Round 3
6 loads of sand
#1 fairway traps
#1 greenside traps
#2 fairway traps
#8 fairway trap
#9 fairway trap
#13 greenside traps





Next up (estimated 6 loads)
#4 fairway trap
#14 all traps
#15 all traps

Next up (estimated 6 loads)
#16 all traps
#17 all traps

Next up (estimated 5 loads)
#10 all traps
#11 all traps
#12 all traps


Monday, July 7, 2014

Greens Aerification

 I do understand everyone does not like the greens after aerification. Bottom line is; it is a must in order to have the greens rolling truly, controlling the thatch management, grain management, water infiltrationy & controlling the organic matter. When I have all of these factors working together the greens become nice, and aerification contributes a large percentage of that success. So everyone please be patience!!!!! I'll have them back within 10 to 14 days.
 This particular aerification, the maintenance staff fertilized the greens a week before aerification. Reason being; In one week from today the grass will be in full strides of growth, we will be aerifying in one week from today. That equals to a faster recovery!!!
 Here's a article from the USGA to read up on.

CORE AERATION BY THE NUMBERS
Explaining the need for aeration is often easier if you use specific numbers

 CORE AERATION is one of the "dirty words" of turfgrass maintenance. Give a veteran superintendent a dollar for every time he has heard, "Why do you punch holes in our greens just when they start to look good?" and he would be a wealthy man. Unfortunately, today's players are even less tolerant of core aeration. This attitude has resulted in less frequent or smaller-tine core aeration. To further complicate matters, many golf courses have planted high-density Ultradwarfs that require additional aeration to maintain healthy growth.
 The old phrase "pay me now or pay me later" rings true with core aeration. There are many golf courses in the Southeast that have neglected core aeration and probably will face serious problems during a severe summer. This article provides a novel method on how to schedule an effective core aeration program.

Why Aerify?

 An important purpose of core aeration is the physical removal of un-wanted organic matter from the upper
portion of the rootzone. Solid tine, deep solid tine, and water injection aeration are other important forms of aeration, but they will not be addressed in this article.
 When core aeration is neglected, the upper portion of the profile can bean inhospitable place for plant roots to grow. The pore space in a dense organic layer is dominated by small, water-filled capillary pores, while the large air-filled macropores are lacking. Oxygen is necessary for the plant to carry out respiration, which is the conversion of stored food to energy. Respiration takes place in the roots and, therefore, good air exchange in the upper soil profile is vital to plant survival.
How Much

Number of Aerifications

 CHRIS HARfWIGER, agronomist, and PATRICK O'BRIEN, director, make common sense of turfgrass management in the USGA Green Section Southeast Region. aeration may take twice as long and use nearly twice as much sand, but it does not take twice as long for the holes to heal.
 By the Numbers We have found that when dealing with course officials, it is easier to focus on a specific number (e.g., impacting 20% of surface area) instead of bogging them down with the details of hole spacing, tine size, etc. Once your golf course commits to a specific aeration goal, you can offer them choices on how to reach the goal.
 Core aeration is one of the most important preventative maintenance practices used on putting greens.
Modify the recommendations in this report to your specific situation and make common sense adjustments as
needed. Core aerify by the numbers and your greens will enjoy the benefits. an inhospitable place for plant roots to grow. The pore space in a dense organic layer is dominated by small, water-filled capillary pores, while the large air-filled macropores are lacking. Oxygen is necessary for the plant to carry out respiration, which is the conversion of stored food to energy. Respiration takes place in the roots and, therefore, good
air exchange in the upper soil profile is vital to plant survival.

How Much is Enough?

 One of the most difficult parts of scheduling an aeration program is to determine how much aeration is adequate to manage the organic layer in the upper portion of the profile. There is no accepted rule of thumb for what percentage of surface area should be impacted each year, but it is safe to say there are more greens that have been aerified too little as opposed to too much.
 In our experience, golf courses with successful, mature greens have been on a core aeration program where 15- 20% of the surface area has been impacted each year. Note that this 15- 20% goal does not specify tine size, hole spacing, or frequency.

Setting Up Your Program

 The amount of surface area impacted is a direct result of tine size, tine spacing, and frequency. Impacting 15-30% of the surface area each year is a reasonable goal for mature, well-maintained greens in the Southeast. If aeration has been neglected, a more aggressive program may be warranted.
 By  changing from a 1/4" tine to a 1/2" tine increases the surface area impacted by four times. Using a 5/8" tine instead of a 1/2" tine increases the surface area impacted by approximately 50%. Changing spacing from 2" x 2" to 1" x 2" with 3/8" tines increases surface area impacted by 100%! This practice was started in 2008 when I came aboard. Wow! That's Awesome!

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Trees & Fencelines

For the homeowners that do not tell there lawn maintenance service to weed-eat the grass on both sides of the fence, a RoundUp with a block is applied.
 We do have a several home owners who do not want the RoundUp and block applied, they have there lawn maintenance service weed-eating both sides of there fence.














 I had started a couple of years back by spraying along the fence-line only if there was a planter along the fence. Did not seem to receive to many complaints. As time has moved on I am know spraying the entire fence-lines. A huge cut-back in labor and time!!!
















All trees have been sprayed as well.

Fairy Ring Disease

fairy ring













Fairy Ring     
[Basidiomycetes]

SYMPTOMS

The symptoms of fairy ring appear in patches, rings, or arcs that are initially 1 foot or less in diameter, but expand in size year after year, reaching up to several hundred feet in diameter in old turf stands. Most fairy ring fungi do not infect or parasitize the turf. Instead, growth of these fungi in the soil can indirectly affect, or even kill, the turfgrass above. Three types of fairy ring symptoms are observed in turfgrasses: Type I, Type II, and Type III. A Type I fairy ring causes the soil and thatch to become hydrophobic, killing the turf in patches, rings, or arcs. In areas affected by a Type I fairy ring, the thatch and soil are extremely dry and repel water. Type II fairy rings appear as rings or arcs of turf that are dark green and growing more quickly than the surrounding turf. In a Type III fairy ring, mushrooms or puffballs are produced in a ring or arc. The type of symptom expressed by a particular fairy ring may change during the year according to weather conditions. Type III fairy ring symptoms are more prevalent during extended periods of wet weather. Type I and Type II fairy ring symptoms are most common during hot, dry weather in the summer. 
FACTORS AFFECTING DISEASE DEVELOPMENT

 Some of the fungi that cause fairy rings are wood-rotting fungi that grow on stumps, dead tree roots, waste lumber or other woody materials. Once established, the turf produces thatch and organic matter, which provides a source of food for continued expansion of the fairy ring. In golf course putting greens and other sandy soils, most fairy rings are caused by puffball fungi, which do not grow on woody materials but instead thrive in the thatch that is produced by turf. On golf course putting greens, fairy rings are often observed spreading into the root zone mix from the surrounding native soil. Mushroom fungi are also prolific spore producers and may be spread into putting greens by wind, water, or other means..
Type I fairy rings are most damaging to turf. Most cases of Type I fairy ring are caused by hydrophobic (water-repellent) residues that are produced as the fairy ring fungus grows through the soil. In other cases, ammonium nitrogen that is released into the soil by fairy ring fungi may accumulate in the soil to toxic levels. Either way, the expression of Type I symptoms can be further encouraged by drought stress, inadequate irrigation, and infrequent aerification.
Type II fairy ring symptoms are a result of the release of nitrogen and other nutrients into the soil as organic matter is degraded by the fairy ring fungi. These symptoms are most evident in turf that is deficient of nutrients, especially nitrogen and iron.
Type III fairy ring symptoms are most common after periods of heavy or frequent rainfall. They may occur more frequently in areas that are poorly drained or over-irrigated.

CULTURAL CONTROL

 In landscape turfgrasses, the most effective means for fairy ring control is to prevent the causal fungi from becoming established in the turf. Remove large pieces of woody material (stumps, waste lumber, and dead tree roots) before turf is planted to prevent the establishment of fairy rings. Landscape contractors should remove this debris around new construction sites before seeding or sodding the turf.
 The source of fairy ring infestations on golf course putting greens is unclear. Sterilization or fumigation of the root zone mix has not been effective in preventing or delaying fairy ring establishment. Installation of a plastic barrier between the root zone mix and surrounding native soil may help to limit the spread of fairy ring into golf course putting greens.
 Power raking or vertical mowing to remove excessive thatch will help to minimize fairy ring problems. Golf course superintendents should regularly aerify and topdress putting greens to prevent thatch buildup and maintain soil aeration. Avoid extremes in soil moisture (too wet, too dry), apply nitrogen based on local University recommendations, and ensure balanced fertility through regular soil testing.
 Once a fairy ring appears, the best management practices depend on the type of symptom that is observed. To control a Type I fairy ring, the water-repellent thatch and soil beneath the affected turf must be re-wet. Hollow-tine aerification, spiking, water-injection, application of soil surfactants, and heavy irrigation are effective strategies for re-wetting this hydrophobic layer. Affected areas should be hand-watered to prevent over-watering of the surrounding, unaffected turf.
 Symptoms of a Type II fairy ring can be masked with an application of nitrogen or iron. This will cause the surrounding turf to green-up, making the affected turf less evident. Collect soil or tissue samples for nutrient analysis from the turf immediately surrounding the Type II fairy rings, and correct any nutrient imbalances as recommended. Use caution when applying nitrogen to mask Type II fairy ring symptoms on cool-season grasses during the summer. Too much nitrogen may over-stimulate the grass and lead to the development of more serious diseases. In this case, iron should be used to increase turf color without causing excessive foliar growth.
 Drastic methods for control of fairy rings, such as soil fumigation, removal of infested soil, or turf renovation by tilling and mixing the soil may be effective in the short-term, but the fairy rings usually become re-established over a period of years.

CHEMICAL CONTROL

 Over 60 species of fungi have been associated with fairy ring symptoms in turfgrasses, and these species likely vary in their sensitivity to fungicides. Control of fairy rings with fungicides is a site-specific venture for this reason. Turfgrass managers should experiment with different products to identify those that will control the disease in their location.
 Fungicides are most effective for fairy ring control when used on a preventative basis. Curative applications have little effect because the symptoms are caused by a change in the soil environment, and fungicides do nothing to change the soil. A preventative fungicide program should be initiated in the spring when mean daily soil temperatures are consistently above 55°F. Regular use of soil surfactants will help to maintain uniform soil moisture and may reduce the appearance of Type I fairy ring symptoms.
 Because fairy ring fungi are in the thatch and soil, fungicides must be watered-in or applied in large volumes of water for best results. Applications in 2 gallons H2O per 1000 ft2 followed by 0.25” of irrigation have provided excellent results in research trials. Irrigation must be applied immediately before the spray begins to dry on the turfgrass foliage. Tank-mixing some fungicides with a soil penetrant may also enhance movement into the soil and improve fairy ring control.
 The DMI fungicides provide excellent preventative control of puffball fungi, such as  Lycoperdon, Vascellum, Bovista, or Arachnion, in golf course putting greens. Two applications on a 30 day interval, beginning in spring when 5-day average soil temperatures reach 55°F have provided season-long control in many cases. The DMI fungicides, however, should not be tank-mixed with soil surfactants as this has been found to reduce their efficacy and increase the potential for phytotoxicity.

 Here at Willow Fork, we applied out 1st fungicide application of Pro Star. We simply spot sprayed it onto the putting surface where the Fairy was present. Once the chemical was applied we hand watered it in. By doing the research and testing, it became clearly evident that the Fairy Ring was approximetly 3/4 of an inch below the putting surface, so we know now how much water to apply.
 In two weeks a second application in the identical places will take place again. Then two weeks later a full application of a root driven fungicide will be applied.
 I will re-post pictures in two weeks and then in four weeks.

Thanks
Willy Plowman
Golf Course Superintendent


















Bill Murray days of Caddy Shack are remembered

Hole #11 had a critter move in. He was leaving piles of sand on the green where he had been digging his tunnels to live a happily ever life---PROBLEM, for him---wrong place to be digging---on a putting green---not going to work.
The beginning stages of his/her digging. Multiple holes was left on the green. Camp had been established to terminate the critter but he was playing smart and would not show himself.











The critter has know been terminated, however the tunnel he was once traveling in, in know collapsing













.















End of the highway!
Serafin has know began repairing the putting surface. Multiple plugs were cut 12" apart and sand was stuffed back into the tunnel to lift the grass back up to a flat surface.